tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6601136307866957422024-03-13T13:49:53.719+11:00Sew UnravelledCloth. Leather. YarnSewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.comBlogger129125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-55056868293652633982020-06-05T15:33:00.000+10:002020-06-05T15:33:14.516+10:00SEWN: THE OTHER LOVE SWEATSHIRTSo what exactly do avid stitchers, makers, crafters do with their time outside their crafts?<br />
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I don't know about everyone else, but my other love is....<br />
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Plants. Verdant, vibrant foliage. Just like Callie here (yep, I name my plants).<br />
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I'm a latecomer to the plant parent game. We live in an apartment so we don't have our own outdoor garden to tend. When it comes to the indoors, up until about 18 months ago we had carpeted floors. So what? I never ever entertained the idea of indoor plants with a carpeted floor.<br />
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What about accidental upending by a small running child? Or a stray elbow or knee? And my child is quite the whirling dervish, let me tell you.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>But when we upgraded to wood floors I suddenly found myself consumed with the idea of a lush indoor jungle. It didn't start well. I was not a natural plant parent. I provided way too much love in the form of overwatering. I misjudged the amount of natural light they would need. It was a sad, sad massacre I tell you.<br />
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But I learnt and now my indoor garden runneth over.<br />
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So when I saw this amazing <a href="https://seeyouatsix.be/en/" target="_blank">See You At Six</a> <a href="https://seeyouatsix.be/en/watering-cans-m-french-terry-fog-blue" target="_blank">watering can french terry</a> made up into some delightful sweats by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/happylat/" target="_blank">@happylat</a> for her twin boys, my first thought was "I gotta get me some of that action!".<br />
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Kat of <a href="https://www.seamstressfabrics.com.au/" target="_blank">Seamstress Fabrics</a> noticed my admiring and yearning comments about this fabric and reached out to me, offering the very last of her stock of this french terry and matching ribbing. Let me tell you, I didn't need to be asked twice.<br />
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If you haven't heard of Seamstress Fabrics, where have you been? Kat opened her online store in Melbourne about 2.5 years ago offering a beautiful array of swoon worthy fabrics, as well as patterns and haberdashery. Kat is an all round fabulous person (did you know that Kat ran Melbourne Frocktails from 2013-2017?) and will send your purchases within Australia, internationally and even offers free pick up for locals.<br />
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This 96% cotton, 4% spandex fabric is delightfully soft and warm and matches perfectly with the ribbing. Whilst my husband tried to convince me to make it into an adult sized onesie (I think he was joking...), I refused to comply and started a search for the perfect sweatshirt pattern.<br />
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And not your stock standard, run-of-the-mill, raglan-sleeved 70's style sweatshirt.<br />
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In the end it had to be an <a href="https://iampatterns.fr/en/" target="_blank">I AM Patterns</a> <a href="https://iampatterns.fr/en/product/sewing-pattern-women-sweatshirt-puff-sleeve-lion/" target="_blank">Lion sweatshirt</a>. Oh those puff sleeves.<br />
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That row of snaps closures across one shoulder...<br />
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Just enough quirk from both the fabric and pattern to elevate both.<br />
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I decided to use the matching ribbing for neck and hem bands, and stuck to self fabric cuffs. I like the continuous look on the sleeve.<br />
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Oh that perfect clean pale blue, those green watering cans. In my mind, the perfect colour pairing.<br />
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A few technical details: This is a size 38 chest and shoulders and size 40 hips. I've not made a sweatshirt before and neither have I worked with french terry or ribbing, so I really laboured over picking a size. I started with a 42 at the hem (matching my hip measurement), but ended up grading back to the 40 in the end. I don't like my sweats too blouson.<br />
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I shortened the body by 2" before adding the hem band so that it would hit right at my favoured high hip.<br />
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I used Vilene Formband Bias Tape to stabilise shoulder seams and the entire neckline. As I intended to use the shoulder snaps to close the left shoulder seam my neckline did not need to stretch. If you make the style choice to sew each shoulder seam traditionally, only stabilise your rear neckline or you'll have a whole lot of trouble getting it over your head.<br />
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I sewed it entirely on my serger, except for the gathering stitch on the sleeve head. Snaps were hammered in with bruised fingers and prayers that they worked. And they did!<br />
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I'm so happy and proud of the end product. This sweatshirt is exactly what I'd hoped for.<br />
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And don't think for a moment it will be relegated to gardening days. This baby deserves an outing.<br />
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<i>Whilst this fabric was a gift from Kat at <a href="https://www.seamstressfabrics.com.au/" target="_blank">Seamstress Fabrics</a>, all opinions are my own.</i>SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-53532149155837917982018-05-27T18:27:00.000+10:002018-05-31T13:23:51.884+10:00SEWN: SLOW BURN TROUSERSSo I'm a skinny jeans kind of girl.<br />
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Don't believe my commitment to wearing skinny jeans?<br />
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Check out pretty much every single one of my posts on this blog. Go ahead, I'll wait...<br />
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See! <br />
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So the making of, and then liking on me, these rather *ahem* blouson pants was quite the departure.<br />
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But I was seduced, I swear. It doesn't often happen, me being influenced by what "everyone" else seems to be making and wearing. And to be honest this idea and the make itself was certainly a slow burn. But I kept seeing <a href="https://www.patternfantastique.com/" target="_blank">Pattern Fantastique's</a> <a href="https://www.patternfantastique.com/products/copy-of-terra-pant-302-printed-pattern-1" target="_blank">Terra Pants</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BiGG8mbB7bu/?tagged=terrapants" target="_blank">popping</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh-wV7Nn4to/?tagged=terrapants" target="_blank">up</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bgu5TuXnR6v/?tagged=terrapants" target="_blank">in</a> my IG feed and I thought <i>they're kind of seriously ugly.... but awesome at the same time.</i><br />
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I ruminated on my surprising attraction to these pants, but couldn't commit to purchasing the pattern. Then I took ownership of the completely fabulous <span style="font-size: small;"><span class="a-size-large" id="productTitle"><a href="https://australia.kinokuniya.com/bw/9784579115631" target="_blank">大きな服を着る、小さな服を着る</a>。by </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">濱田明日香 (Hamada Asuka). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">The title loosely translates to </span><i>Wear big clothes, Wear small clothes, a book that enjoys various size clothes </i>and every pattern literally has a big (loose fitting, somewhat oversized) and small (or conventionally fitted) version to make. I adore it.<br />
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I think I might want to make everything. Then I saw this...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-6Uk9QiXvYFP9krGtrWmiUIWGpAzUerlAmlRd4ALo63ZG5iVW7nd5a00P2UuZgUiqF5QFRe0FZrOZA0nB8Cplpq96DGEdTzMyiP_kT5MK_2Hzv8gvfCaO2tiwMyPcVt_QSnTBYZRnK0/s1600/pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-6Uk9QiXvYFP9krGtrWmiUIWGpAzUerlAmlRd4ALo63ZG5iVW7nd5a00P2UuZgUiqF5QFRe0FZrOZA0nB8Cplpq96DGEdTzMyiP_kT5MK_2Hzv8gvfCaO2tiwMyPcVt_QSnTBYZRnK0/s400/pattern.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
and realised I might have a suitable pattern.<br />
<br />
I thought linen. I love this type of pant in lovely, sheeny, breezy linen and surprisingly Spotlight gave up the goods and I snapped up a seriously delightful dusky blue 100% linen in their recent 40% off sale.<br />
<br />
I was quick to toile these ones as the sizing was a bit... odd. Only two sizes offered: 1 (small to medium) and 2 (medium to large). My pear-shape always spans two sizes and usually I'm large-ish in Japanese patterns. But these being <i>huge</i> made me feel a bit worried. The finished measurements are provided and there was soooooooooo much ease I was a bit concerned they'd fall off (huge waist of 80cm for the size 1, for 60-68cm waist). I don't get it. And sure enough, the toile of size 1 yielded a ridiculously oversized result. You could have fit 2 of me in there.<br />
<br />
I scratched my head about where to start with downsizing. I really wanted the loose leg and hip and didn't want to lessen those fabulous front pleats. So I took a whopping 1.5" out of the centre back seam at the waist, grading to nothing at the crotch curve (I adjusted this curve a bit) and 3/4" each side seam from the waist grading to nothing at the bottom of the pocket opening. In the final sew up I removed a further 3/4" from the centre back seam - for a total of nearly 4". I mean seriously!<br />
<br />
But it worked!<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSmnsVUO807sQ9mrjUYzmsXyfnDGdcAjUX19jPTiDw51ugrUfox-bgLHRF5MGe1ku65_zK0UwRuP0uX0R6SMrk2wwlVeyxNluItfo2pxCGRWC0IGMxF6u6JIr_YqpFkxvrQOHQJwt-qw/s1600/DSC_0571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSmnsVUO807sQ9mrjUYzmsXyfnDGdcAjUX19jPTiDw51ugrUfox-bgLHRF5MGe1ku65_zK0UwRuP0uX0R6SMrk2wwlVeyxNluItfo2pxCGRWC0IGMxF6u6JIr_YqpFkxvrQOHQJwt-qw/s1600/DSC_0571.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
Look at that butt fit!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81RpJa0eN8dXJbH6k5gqN1W33LSoFt_1hwnKkjz55AoVjxUlRwaPUOW45Afny_FCBPcsARr9Nd9gxbRZAEcPI-icEO7S19prAVgdSt7NqUQT-LfQSz1Pr9lWECaefUKMX45XHW294B-4/s1600/DSC_0556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81RpJa0eN8dXJbH6k5gqN1W33LSoFt_1hwnKkjz55AoVjxUlRwaPUOW45Afny_FCBPcsARr9Nd9gxbRZAEcPI-icEO7S19prAVgdSt7NqUQT-LfQSz1Pr9lWECaefUKMX45XHW294B-4/s1600/DSC_0556.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
The little crease/ridge below the waistband is actually the bottom of my fabulous leaf print tiny pocket tee, not a fitting issue.<br />
<br />
I'm surprised by how much I like this look on me, especially with the loose-ish top. I'd normally make my top big and my bottoms small or vice versa. I don't do loose everywhere, I feel it swamps me. But I'm liking this.<br />
<br />
It was a slow make because the text is untranslated Japanese and far more technical than a lot of Japanese pants patterns that almost universally finish the waistband with elastic. I used my translator app, but it wasn't always helpful. Especially since it was my first time inserting a full fly - one with fly guard thingies - and so I really found this <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/04/video-easy-to-sew-flat-fly-front-zipper" target="_blank">Threads tutorial</a> helpful. I worked on the pants in bits and pieces, because... life. In all they took me about 3 weeks to complete. But they were worth the work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWlQpEcSbk9VRPiYwf2GxwqHT1HVxj2EymTAnKGvQOTNpAZCiia76cz0HtOh7SGvkOumoXaQMRDHlQyHqNzdJ5cIRg8jp7FKumf9rUP0HYTRWz8X2K35mtcwOoSVhTYyZnMUxhTpfegfE/s1600/DSC_0570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1431" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWlQpEcSbk9VRPiYwf2GxwqHT1HVxj2EymTAnKGvQOTNpAZCiia76cz0HtOh7SGvkOumoXaQMRDHlQyHqNzdJ5cIRg8jp7FKumf9rUP0HYTRWz8X2K35mtcwOoSVhTYyZnMUxhTpfegfE/s1600/DSC_0570.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
And I finally found a way to wear my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2016/07/sewn-impossibly-perfect-top.html" target="_blank"><i>Impossibly Perfect Top</i></a> which was impossible to wear with all my hipster pants. Check it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBNxi6PqdGT2Q10SgZEEFLM0Nf5hz22zRuOacyMlv7LWgzfI5Z8IP46th-tzDBXCaajC6NYKAmQomeqcHJOOQK-hD_2v6AOWAjIxtpUrhO5FqRh05KX7lzD2YGJqaK5oOLi3cRHZPUyxY/s1600/DSC_0591.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1358" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBNxi6PqdGT2Q10SgZEEFLM0Nf5hz22zRuOacyMlv7LWgzfI5Z8IP46th-tzDBXCaajC6NYKAmQomeqcHJOOQK-hD_2v6AOWAjIxtpUrhO5FqRh05KX7lzD2YGJqaK5oOLi3cRHZPUyxY/s1600/DSC_0591.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
The higher waistline finish means no glimpses of belly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhriIQu1epLQnZJu_LFvL0ukIpcHDW-E2Max4X2Jm20u8Rln233w10OjAj2APoxAXIrD9_Iw-vke-YoxSghcTGyxJPeeI6haYdg2oeI6Ryrdk9K14rGO0sqZ5gMqA7qQmefsd306Cf65I/s1600/DSC_0607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1579" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhriIQu1epLQnZJu_LFvL0ukIpcHDW-E2Max4X2Jm20u8Rln233w10OjAj2APoxAXIrD9_Iw-vke-YoxSghcTGyxJPeeI6haYdg2oeI6Ryrdk9K14rGO0sqZ5gMqA7qQmefsd306Cf65I/s1600/DSC_0607.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
This I threw hastily over my leaf print tank, but I wouldn't normally do that.<br />
<br />
And can we take a little moment to be impressed with the following ensemble...<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5GJQ4pK9Uyx9h_OIn9ZjyAVG9QN5_MpzcFG51TDzNiYyd2VOkXTs0NXMf1BAeg0b4HamshmHhppidpJpoSo8hLOmGS7hNiRmH9dyGaqi0891W0jdw9c5_3xNpzZpGRg7UKZsiLsTc4s/s1600/DSC_0544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5GJQ4pK9Uyx9h_OIn9ZjyAVG9QN5_MpzcFG51TDzNiYyd2VOkXTs0NXMf1BAeg0b4HamshmHhppidpJpoSo8hLOmGS7hNiRmH9dyGaqi0891W0jdw9c5_3xNpzZpGRg7UKZsiLsTc4s/s1600/DSC_0544.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
100% me-made people. It's actually happened. I mean, everything (except those damn sunglasses):<br />
<br />
<i><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Be6UH92FFpB/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">Tiny pocket tank</a></i><br />
<i>Slow Burn trousers</i><br />
<i><a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2017/08/leatherworked-hello-beautiful.html" target="_blank">Hello Beautiful Bag</a></i><br />
<i><a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2018/03/sewn-whats-up-buttercup.html" target="_blank">What's Up, Buttercup? Bra</a></i> (you'll have to believe me on the me-made knickers)<br />
<span id="goog_1507235103">And my brand spanking new, <i><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi8Fkm6hW_v/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">Multi Sandals</a></i> crafted at a recent <a href="https://theshoecamaraderie.com/" target="_blank">The Shoe Camaraderie</a> workshop. Freaking amazeballs people!!</span><span id="goog_1507235104"></span><br />
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<br />
I'm really excited to make up quite a few of the patterns from this book, including the <i>small</i> version of these pants, so stay tuned.<br />
<br />
In the meantime, I'll be hanging out over here being all cool... and man-repellent.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidL2L-NJk416mqqKZQwLtfepUQUqMK0fCjbFplKIgQ-nJKbAWw7WP9JruA6A1eSRh4KR5fJRkdI5KnTHut4Pv2piUD82azFF-ClWPNfmTTHr0lYYneW1ZC3Te487kZdBGwbSy6BBbgSa0/s1600/DSC_0561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1565" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidL2L-NJk416mqqKZQwLtfepUQUqMK0fCjbFplKIgQ-nJKbAWw7WP9JruA6A1eSRh4KR5fJRkdI5KnTHut4Pv2piUD82azFF-ClWPNfmTTHr0lYYneW1ZC3Te487kZdBGwbSy6BBbgSa0/s1600/DSC_0561.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
Or checking out that spider hole down there...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzQcyuvP6tKr4O-3Q5bW6SVSPY7_CPghm0tuLdjMStQNsqDcgDiPZY1JSHSqxpdAL-B0J_1tG3rMeUWacSaBm_iuQw3HHgZc2hvb9oZbosj3ZhU3wfNSqcRo9gOBbHJyTLzw11wJSCVAY/s1600/DSC_0549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1471" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzQcyuvP6tKr4O-3Q5bW6SVSPY7_CPghm0tuLdjMStQNsqDcgDiPZY1JSHSqxpdAL-B0J_1tG3rMeUWacSaBm_iuQw3HHgZc2hvb9oZbosj3ZhU3wfNSqcRo9gOBbHJyTLzw11wJSCVAY/s1600/DSC_0549.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-67981247541156102762018-03-09T14:21:00.002+11:002018-03-09T18:08:20.102+11:00SEWN: WHAT'S UP, BUTTERCUP?I've begun a new obsession...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPzl_eMmac1ARDEX4PNs6G31G7Gnbgi5WKkxxoSmAtY2G3XnJ5hpx0cLY4-yhDyKFpDFYe7FMgVBKKPE0U-lx5GOnhTWVevW229y2nKOAMC-NcRFD_FA9B6douv0XhAiCELWso6LoWy0/s1600/Bra1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1371" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPzl_eMmac1ARDEX4PNs6G31G7Gnbgi5WKkxxoSmAtY2G3XnJ5hpx0cLY4-yhDyKFpDFYe7FMgVBKKPE0U-lx5GOnhTWVevW229y2nKOAMC-NcRFD_FA9B6douv0XhAiCELWso6LoWy0/s1600/Bra1.JPG" /></a></div>
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<br />
It's a slightly frustrating and challenging one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDFGUy8cam8sXBhraXaLVrDQi3RuYC4Z303C9ANLAGd6w604lYVjLxrDgukbR9DQW1cmlrO-ieA7Yh5oixgL489MuusEqnYhNhyfiZTVonsZemvgD-9MQ1-m0n8OMI4bMhFL6eybQaHag/s1600/Bra4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1568" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDFGUy8cam8sXBhraXaLVrDQi3RuYC4Z303C9ANLAGd6w604lYVjLxrDgukbR9DQW1cmlrO-ieA7Yh5oixgL489MuusEqnYhNhyfiZTVonsZemvgD-9MQ1-m0n8OMI4bMhFL6eybQaHag/s1600/Bra4.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
Knickers.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM03LYAlYvzrYOStQQpPoZe77Rm86lZeVW6mP3gmO0RPu0udqAbZ8_JsaScjrZ9TAyYHZaSLmu4iFFMnyHga3VUaKUitIbQaTQ4tZhjWGb46omzRmJgMuAPgUGCMpSxYPSA5Kn0NFVJPA/s1600/Bra3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM03LYAlYvzrYOStQQpPoZe77Rm86lZeVW6mP3gmO0RPu0udqAbZ8_JsaScjrZ9TAyYHZaSLmu4iFFMnyHga3VUaKUitIbQaTQ4tZhjWGb46omzRmJgMuAPgUGCMpSxYPSA5Kn0NFVJPA/s1600/Bra3.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
Bras.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JWIi6WwAV2NvbWnKyjUkN4d2DGxemqe2kPBasjuxEhoOivAlcEclNu4b-ItMbrPCbDU6ZjcQf6tLwODvxyVL_fY-kBcplvGDN2ZJc0PSoH00UCfMj8V3X-4BqVszxGCiDlmX52b5w88/s1600/Bra18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JWIi6WwAV2NvbWnKyjUkN4d2DGxemqe2kPBasjuxEhoOivAlcEclNu4b-ItMbrPCbDU6ZjcQf6tLwODvxyVL_fY-kBcplvGDN2ZJc0PSoH00UCfMj8V3X-4BqVszxGCiDlmX52b5w88/s1600/Bra18.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Boulder holders (humour is good in a situation like this, no?). <br />
<br />
I've gotten to an age where faking more than I've got is uncomfortable and really... who am I trying to fool?<br />
<br />
So with that I decided: underwires and push-up cups, no more!!<br />
<br />
This is not my first rodeo, having created a couple of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bb0paFSFV3L/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">horrendously fitting</a> and a few <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcZC63KFIMw/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">mildly successful</a> bras before reaching my <i>hallelujah</i> moment. A bra that fits, straight out of the packet. Otherwise known as a unicorn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqM92FiNBtll8Po8tEGptjY1uHconUeclJZ0SffZmXzjPPHbmAwPwfAWDE7n5cPVdT-bVOKZ8xAimJH9UkNMbNaXS7oDeAO6UrfriWojIRd6IMPLsF1DJ5tB-sc8QAkoLZvQYegkTv7E/s1600/Bra21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqM92FiNBtll8Po8tEGptjY1uHconUeclJZ0SffZmXzjPPHbmAwPwfAWDE7n5cPVdT-bVOKZ8xAimJH9UkNMbNaXS7oDeAO6UrfriWojIRd6IMPLsF1DJ5tB-sc8QAkoLZvQYegkTv7E/s1600/Bra21.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Or <a href="https://shop.clothhabit.com/collections/all/products/watson-bra-bikini?variant=939719301" target="_blank">Cloth Habit's Watson</a><a href="https://shop.clothhabit.com/collections/all/products/watson-bra-bikini?variant=939719301" target="_blank"> Bra and Bikini Pattern</a> if we want to get specific. But I will forever know it as <i>The Unicorn.</i> It is described as<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
...70's-inspired lingerie set perfect for lounging or dressing up! The bra is a very easy-to-wear style with a plunge neckline and is designed for stretch fabrics in the cups. Make it as a longline bra for a little glamour (and more lift!) or try the shorter band for a very simple day bra...</blockquote>
The pattern has been out there forever and is hugely popular among makers (go on, Google it). It seems a lot of us are kicking back at the idea of wearing structured, wired, eminently uncomfortable and ill-fitting bras. Go us!! I've been kicking around the idea of trying this bra for some time, but for some reason... I kept putting it off.<br />
<br />
I was recently inspired to try this pattern after seeing the delightful happylat's <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BeL_NHEAR9T29zooK7mn1Y2LY72f2rU4G4o5Oc0/?taken-by=happylat" target="_blank">amazing</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Be9Pyc0A9SqEJAonQ_mMkJD6dXkdU28hpVr3N00/?taken-by=happylat" target="_blank">forays</a> into the Watson, with a similar bust size and having been successful in adding my favourite finish of foam cups. I love a soft cup, foam-lined bra. All the comfort of a non-wired bra, but with a teeny tiny bit of oomph assistance and the all important modesty. I was sold.<br />
<br />
I originally toiled the shorter band version in a swim lycra, which is one of the suggested fabrics (never photographed, but I really should have since I squealed stupidly at its almost perfect fit). It was a true toile, never designed for wearing after. In other words, it was ugly. <br />
<br />
I was then eager to try it in a stretch lace I had on hand. Oh, who am I kidding? I've been obsessively buying up stretch laces for months! <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bfm_54tltZd/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">And it was good</a>. <br />
<br />
Whilst that blue lace version was a success, it felt a little less than flattering (more a lounge bra) and I really wanted more... foam cups.<br />
<br />
Tadah!<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfqSkiERkfU1E2_uJoOk76wevPuDIkh2V2xSVYrVS8sgUYOSRIXbA7iBXvdSUQewrtm4gHyQdstEP1uJ61pwiULPN4CBdKq4_9VtHySaIV23wo_iKIH2bM0w85RD6X11_OGBgEKRge9w/s1600/Bra6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfqSkiERkfU1E2_uJoOk76wevPuDIkh2V2xSVYrVS8sgUYOSRIXbA7iBXvdSUQewrtm4gHyQdstEP1uJ61pwiULPN4CBdKq4_9VtHySaIV23wo_iKIH2bM0w85RD6X11_OGBgEKRge9w/s1600/Bra6.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
An important thing to know is that the Watson pattern is fully support by an online <a href="https://clothhabit.com/watson-sew-along/" target="_blank">sewalong that Amy of Cloth Habit put together</a>,
to hold your hand and get you through. Use it. It's brilliant. From
choosing fabrics, to photographs and directions for each step, to
fitting alterations and how-tos. That woman is a star. But beware -
there are a number of times when the sewalong strays from the pattern
instructions. Especially in regards to stitch lengths and widths, which
did drive me nuts. I ended up testing various combinations myself and
then writing down the ones I wanted to use for reference as I went. <br />
<br />
Since I wanted foam cups covered in lace I needed a few variations of patterns pieces. Amy shows you <a href="https://clothhabit.com/watson-sew-along-6-cutting-scalloped-lace-cup/" target="_blank">how to alter for scallop-edged lace</a>, and I've done Beverly Johnson's <i>Sewing Bras: Foam, Lace & Beyond</i> course on Craftsy so I knew what to do to create the foam cups. And to keep things clear for cutting out, I transferred all those pieces to cardboard (manilla folder) and carefully marked what they were for.<br />
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So how do you create the wonder that is a soft cup, foam lined, lace covered bra?<br />
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In short...<br />
<ul>
<li>Remove the seam allowance from, and straighten out, the neckline edge for foam and lace covers. </li>
<li>Remove cross cup seam allowance for foam cups. The edges are simply butted together and sewn with a zigzag stitch</li>
<li>All other SA's are left as drafted.</li>
<li>I chose to finish the neckline edge of the foam cup by zigzagging along the edge (to flatten it out and reduce bulk) and then applying foldover elastic to stabilise it</li>
<li>The lace cover is then applied on top, aligning the LOPO (low point of the lace) with the edge of the foam cup. Stretch the cover over (if needed, mine fit just fine) and then baste together along the bottom cup and armhole edge</li>
<li>To stop the lace neckline edge from flipping up or hanging loose I secured it with an invisible bartack about three times down the neckline edge, through lace and foam.</li>
<li>Continue to sew the bra as directed, being careful to trim the armhole SA carefully before flipping elastic to inside and sewing your second pass to reduce bulk. You might also like to trim your lower cup seam allowance after sewing to the cradle to reduce bulk. </li>
</ul>
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I chose not to enclose the bottom cup seam, where it joins the cradle, as it doesn't bother me visually (looks relatively neat) or affect my comfort. You can finish that seam by covering it with plush underwire channeling, and I might try this in future. I'm personally unconvinced as the channeling would add even more bulk at that seam.<br />
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Ingredients included:<br />
<ul>
<li>Stretch lace for the cup cover and underbust band/cradle</li>
<li>White cut-and-sew foam for the cups</li>
<li>Powernet for the bands</li>
<li>Sheer cup lining for stabilising the cradle</li>
<li>White strap elastic</li>
<li>5/8" underbust elastic (too wide, pattern calls for 1/2", so will add at least 1/4" to bottom of pattern piece before next version)</li>
<li>3/8" armhole elastic (whoops, thought I'd bought that but it turned out to be a fairly stretchy, narrow band elastic. I'll swap out next time as it doesn't stretch as well as picot and so the top band fit is tight)</li>
<li>White foldover elastic for neckline edge of foam </li>
<li>Silver coloured rings and sliders</li>
<li>White 2x3 bra closure</li>
</ul>
I was surprised to find that the foam did not alter the good fit. As it does not really have any stretch, I thought I might need to go up a cup size. I made this version up, and all versions to date, in my RTW size of 34A. The only fit issue I have is a bit
of extra fabric in the right hand side upper cup area. Like many women,
my bewbs are not perfectly symmetrical. It's not a huge problem, but I might try and tweak the fit over the next few iterations.<br />
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This bra makes me feel like swanning around in it, purring in a sultry voice, "What's up, Buttercup?".<br />
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Oh, and there will be more. I can see this as pretty much my perfect everyday bra, so I'll need at least... 10 or so. Right?<br />
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Oh and I must try the included bikini pattern. Who doesn't love a matching set?SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-55564318224304006592018-03-03T20:10:00.002+11:002018-03-03T20:32:16.938+11:00SEWN: BOX PLEAT BUBBLEFrocktails frenzy hit Sydney recently.<br />
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A chance to create a dress one might not ordinarily have a reason to create.<br />
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And let's face it. I rarely have a reason to dress up and play elegant.<br />
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So I really threw myself into it this year. Last year I wore my beloved (only worn a couple of times previously) <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/09/sewn-anniversary-dress.html" target="_blank">The Anniversary Dress/Flutter Tunic,</a> because I believe in making clothes that will be worn more than once. But, I felt I really <i>needed</i> a new cocktail frock this year and I new exactly what I wanted.<br />
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A bubble dress. Or is it a tulip dress? Or simply a voluminous pleated skirt? No, that's not it. It needed to nip in at the waist, bow out at the hip and nip back in again at the hem.<br />
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And I already knew exactly what fabric I would use.<br />
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I envisaged this dress as soon as I saw this fabric in a Spotlight store a few years ago. I was on that winking bolt like white on rice and bought the entirety of its yardage. Which isn't as big as I'm making it sound. There was only 2.8m left and to sweeten the deal it was snapped up in a 40% off sale.<br />
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Sumptuous. Luxurious. Heavy. Voluminous.<br />
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Everything I crave for in evening wear. Which has conspicuously entailed <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2016/02/sewn-homage.html" target="_blank">nothing but brocade</a> for me for the <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/06/sewn-quirky-diva.html" target="_blank">past few years</a> at least.<br />
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And I knew it would be perfect for a bubble skirt or a dress with oodles of structure. So I did both. A silhouette that is a large departure from my norm of sack and trapeze dresses. And where better place to source that pattern than from my ever loved and ever growing library of Japanese pattern books.<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">I'd been pondering Pattern No. 12 from <i>Textiles that are Loved Around The World & Dresses</i> by Nakanishi Tsu for some time. It might be why I accidentally bought the book from Amazon Japan when I somehow (still don't know how) activated one-click buying and welcomed about 4 new books at once to my already burgeoning collection of Japanese pattern books. Whoops. It could have been worse, I guess.</span><br />
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The pattern certainly had the general tulip/bubble style skirt I'd been thinking of, but I wanted a very fitted bodice, and this was not that. I knew I could certainly help along that shape of the skirt by using a fabric that would hold stiffly, with no drape, to really accentuate the shape. And I believed that I could at least over fit the bodice to get what I was after.<br />
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My measurements put me in size M to ML for bust, L for waist, LL for hips, and L for height. So I started by toiling a size small bodice. Not quite right, it was all too short everywhere - armscye, overall length. But the princess seams passed right over my bust and the fit there was quite good. Second toile was an M with 1cm added to the length. And we had a winner. The fit was quite loose underbust though with almost a straight line from bust apex down to the waist. I simply took in my toile about 1/4" under bust grading to 0 at the waist (I could not bear redoing the pleat arrangement/maths if I messed with the waist seam and it actually felt quite snug there). I also ran in the side seams about 1/4" at the underarm grading to 0 at the waist. And might I add - no freaking SBA in sight. Woot woot! Clearly I am built like the Japanese model these patterns are drafted for. Happy days.<br />
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I cut a size M waist for the skirt grading out to the L at the hip and back in to the M hem - I really wanted a distinct bubble shape.<br />
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I spent a lot of time laying out the pattern and cutting the fabric, carefully choosing how I wanted those curved princess seams to manage the pattern repeat, because clearly it could not match entirely along those seams.<br />
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And I'm majorly happy with the result. Look at that bodice. It's pretty damn perfectly fitting.<br />
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Can we not talk about that slightly jogged pattern matching down the back invisible zipper seam? Honestly that thing was perfect through basting the seam and the zipper tapes to the SA, but then in the final passes of actually attaching the zipper, something went awry. I used a new to me technique that was outlined in the pattern book and I stand by it and will use it again. The waist seams match perfectly and there is no bubble at the bottom as very often occurs when inserting an invisible zipper. I'm happy with it, and honestly sometimes life is too short and you just want to go and party.<br />
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The pattern only includes bodice facings and calls for a lined skirt. I turned that on its head, deciding to fully line the bodice in an amazing teal silk twill I was gifted from the delightful <a href="http://www.adaspragg.com/" target="_blank">Sophie</a> some time ago. And I skipped the skirt lining - my fabric back was quite smooth and soft and comfortable against the skin.<br />
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I also worked out how to attach the lining by machine stitching along the zipper seam (ugh, hand sewing, who needs it?). So professional looking.<br />
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And of course I decided a day out that I needed a new bag to take along as well. Enter the bronze hide that keeps on giving and <a href="http://www.kylieandthemachine.com/" target="_blank">Kylie and the Machine</a>'s <a href="https://kylieandthemachine.shop/products/ida-clutch-sewing-pattern-free" target="_blank">Ida Clutch pattern</a>. I've <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2017/09/leatherworked-embracing-imperfection.html" target="_blank">made the clutch</a> once before and realised after completion that I prefer it in its unfolded, open style, so this version has no magnetic closure. I lined it with some leftover linen cotton I used to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcoBm3BFgKn/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">make an apron for my Mum</a>. And of course, everything is improved by tassels. So... tassel.<br />
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But the essence of the story, after this epic <i>War and Peace</i> blog post, is that I felt amazing. This dress is everything I dreamt of. I felt I looked my best, I was entirely comfortable in my skin and I'm not sure I've felt so elegant before. I sometimes think I should dress my age, and if this is it, then I'm on board... with a side of ever-so-slight quirk.<br />
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<br />SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-76401323089666653152017-11-13T10:27:00.001+11:002017-11-13T10:27:44.229+11:00SEWN: PRETTY POLLYMeet Polly.<br />
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She's a style of dress I never thought I'd make or wear.<br />
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Yet here we are. And I rather like her.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>This is vintage Vogue 9186 a Very Easy pattern (I can vouch for that). It's everything that was good about the 70's.<br /><br />
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This pattern was gifted me amongst about 30 or so others by an old work colleague who sewed them when the patterns were new. I always loved the look of this dress, but being rather *ahem* flat-chested *ahem* I dispair of backless numbers. I can't go bra-less or I look phenomenally flat and don't have enough up top to hold up a strapless number (and that doesn't work with backless anyway).<br />
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But the pattern kept calling to me and leaping out of my stash anytime I ventured there. <br />
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I originally intended to make this one out of a chambray, because denim. But I really gotta branch out. I live in denim and it's time for a change every now and then. This gorgeous floaty and soft fabric was a score at a local opp shop. Three metres for $3 making this an extraordinarily frugal make and relatively risk free if I decided backless was just too much work.<br />
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I'm sure it's a polyester as it doesn't wrinkle at all (perfect for squished clothes in summer holiday suitcases), and whilst I don't usually wear synthetics (except for swimwear and technical activewear) I adore how this fabric feels against the skin. Almost silky.<br />
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I made no modification to the pattern, sewing exactly as drafted. I did toile the bodice front to check where the darts oriented and bizarrely everything looked AOK. Given the blousey nature of the bodice I didn't do an SBA as the looseness works just fine.<br />
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Love the angled pockets and the just-on-the-knee length. Feels elegant and somewhat sophisticated and as I speed through my 40's I seem to be more and more attracted to that aesthetic.<br />
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So how did I resolve the bra situation? Lightweight, adhesive bra cups. We'll see how long they stay stuck, shall we? Humidity, I'm looking at you.<br />
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In the meantime, if you're looking for me, I'll be over here just hanging out all sultry and summer like.<br />
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<br />SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-18305355661965509682017-09-21T18:00:00.000+10:002017-09-21T19:12:10.439+10:00SEWN: The RenegadeSometimes we need to rebel.<br />
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Sometimes a fabric will just scream to be made into something quite unsuitable for its spongey, luxuriously heavy jacquardness.<br />
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This amazing double jacquard just wouldn't be put in its place. It believed it was born to be a renegade. Or something. The idea just kinda popped into my head and wouldn't leave me alone. It kept whispering furiously in my ear...<br />
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<i>Make me into a <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/products/tokyo-jacket-pattern-print-at-home-or-copy-shop-version" target="_blank">Tessuti Tokyo jacket</a>. Really. You know you want to.</i></div>
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And I was quite helpless to resist.<br />
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I could see in my mind's eye what it was telling me. I envisaged a swingy, perhaps slightly Japanese pattern-like trans-seasonal jacket.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Not at all what the Tokyo Jacket is meant to be. It's meant to be a <a href="http://blog.tessuti.com.au/2013/05/our-latest-pattern-tokyo-jacke/" target="_blank">kimono style jacket for drapey, lightweight fabrics</a>. But I say <i>Pah, why stick with convention? Let's be renegades. Groundbreakers.</i><br />
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The Tokyo Jacket pattern was released four years ago and past me already bought it, stuck the pdf together, cut the pattern to size small and then proceeded to try twice to make it in a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/-H9ejGPvK2/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">slinky temptress of a fabric</a> that made me turn off slinky temptress fabrics <i>forever</i>. And ever.<br />
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And thank goodness, because after a <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2013/09/sewn-my-new-fave-top.html" target="_blank">few</a> <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/06/sewn-hometown-jacket.html" target="_blank">more</a> <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/12/sewn-stockholm-annie.html" target="_blank">experiences</a> with Tessuti patterns I've come to know they are drafted large. I made an XS in this and if they had an XXS I'd have been happy. As you can see this is rather roomy. Don't get me wrong it's meant to be unfitted, of course, but it feels ever so slightly... swimmy. That, however, just makes it good for wrapping oneself in and keeping the chill at bay.<br />
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The fabric is a <a href="https://www.pitttrading.com.au/" target="_blank">Pitt Trading</a> purchase from ages ago (or maybe last winter, I can't quite remember). It was on the remnant/pre-cut table in the half price sale and I got suckered in. I had no idea what I'd make with it, but I was strangely drawn to its black and natural colour and its double-sided spongey feel. I think I originally thought I'd make a winter dress. But I figured something out lately. I'm a separates kinda girl in the cold months and a dress girl in the warm. I was never gonna wear a winter dress. What would I do with my jeans?<br />
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I've got to comment on the drafting of this pattern. Whilst Tessuti patterns are hand-drafted (or so it appears) and hand drawn (making them quaint, but provoking concerns about accuracy) I have found, without fail, that they come together extraordinarily well. And this was no different. Every piece fit beautifully together with the next even when I had been concerned about the accuracy of my sewing.<br />
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I thoroughly enjoyed this sew. The fabric absolutely presented some challenges. The stump-jumper came out regularly, especially around those fabulous pockets and the turned back cuff. The jacquard had a substantial amount of crossgrain stretch so I used <a href="http://shop.emmaseabrooke.com/product.sc;jsessionid=B1B083C49185EC4566CE3A8C79B403CB.p3plqscsfapp003?productId=32&categoryId=3" target="_blank">woven fusible stay tape</a> to stay the entire length of the centre front, back neckline, pocket tops and shoulder seams. Fusing presented some difficulty as the fabric surface is not smooth, but I persevered and the results are great. This tape is awesome for heavier weight fabrics where you don't want to add bulk.<br />
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All in all I'm super happy with the jacket. It's delightfully swingy, perfectly luxurious to wear and satisfies the separates wearer in me. Now I'm off out of the frigid wind that's blowing in these photos. I was trying so hard not to look like I was turning blue!<br />
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<br />SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-92189399749123780822017-09-14T17:14:00.004+10:002017-09-14T17:15:45.228+10:00LEATHERWORKED: Embracing ImperfectionI am often very hard on myself.<br />
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I want things to be perfect. I expect to live up to my own very high standards.<br />
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If you're going to do something, do it well. And I know when it's going well. There is a certain flow to the process. The pieces fall into place neatly and with decorum. The project grows in one's hands with joy and excitement.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>This here project just about broke me. It just felt awkward and half-arsed from the start. I'm not experienced with traditional bag making. You know... interfacings (heavy? light? medium? what does that even mean?), hardware (don't you get that from a hardware store? no?).<br />
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D-rings, keyrings, rivets. When? Why? How?<br />
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It's like a foreign language. And honestly, I usually learn best from hand holding, not from reading or listening. And I had no one to hold my hand... sniff.<br />
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This is the <a href="http://www.kylieandthemachine.com/introducing-the-ida-clutch/">Ida Clutch</a>, a free pattern from <a href="http://www.kylieandthemachine.com/">Kylie and the Machine</a>. It's being made up everywhere and it's a looker of a bag. When I bought the leather for my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2017/08/leatherworked-hello-beautiful.html">Hello, Beautiful bag</a> I also snapped up a delightfully tomato-hued hide specifically with the Ida in mind. Sheeny, shiny, chromed goodness.<br />
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I also picked up a few scraps from the remnant bins at <a href="http://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/" target="_blank">Birdsall Leather</a> with the idea of making up numerous versions for gifting and giving. Stuffed that right up. The remnants are all only big enough to cut one side of the bag. Why? Because I'm an idiot. I just didn't read the instructions right. And as they are all different weights and colours I can't even combine them to create a colourblocked bag. Ugh.<br />
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But back to the red. I did happily have enough of that for a bag and a decorative tassel. Happy days!<br />
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The leather was reasonably easy to manage. It's quite thin and Kylie suggested using Silk Fuse as an interfacing to give it body (and very kindly sent me some with my order of zips and magnetic closures. She's a good egg). That's where my struggles began. I could not get that bloody interfacing to fuse over the entire piece. It would fuse in places and not in others and the whole process made my blood boil.<br />
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In the end I just did my best and lived with the knowledge it would be sandwiched between lining and outer anyway, sight unseen.<br />
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To top it off I then realised I was supposed to have attached my invisible magnetic closures prior to fusing the interfacing. Farrrrrrrrk. I peeled off the top section and attached one closure (badly, stitching is more ovular than circular), but given that the other is about halfway down the piece, that one is attached over the interfacing. I will say, it would have been better under the interfacing as the magnetic pull is not very strong and the bag doesn't like to stay folded over.<br />
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I did a mess of a job inserting the zipper. I did not leave enough of a side seam allowance at each end so when it came time to close those side seams I had a devil of a time. The SA there is about 1/4" at best and I had to hand crank my machine to get over all those layers.<br />
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Speaking of stitching. Let's talk about how all my machines hate topstitching leather (well the two I tried anyway. Modern Janome and my beloved Singer 201P). I probably should not have used a traditional zipper insertion with a folded back seam allowance. The leather was <i>just</i> thick enough that turning back and topstitching was a bit of a monster. Both machines again had to be hand cranked several times to glide over the slightly sticky leather and eventually missforming/skipping stitches the whole way along the zipper edge. My brain nearly exploded with fury. Yes I know, walking foot, walking foot, walking foot. I'll get one, I promise. And you know there is no unpicking leather. What's done is done and that fact is damn hard to swallow.<br />
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But what about that lining, hey? It's a gorgeous upholstery weight palm frond print I made a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BPOdy5AACTo/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">beach umbrella bag</a> out of. Happily there was enough left to create a lovely pop of colour on the inside of my bag.<br />
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So with all that ranting above, why did I finish? My loathing for UFO's is great. They bother me hugely. So I hung in there, finished the lining and then sent the pretty much completed bag into the naughty corner.<br />
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Three days later I found the fortitude to press on. Strangely, the memories of fury and frustration had faded (is that like they tell you you'll forget how incredibly painful delivering a baby is and go back to have more? Ummmm nope, I stopped at the one).<br />
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I felt strangely compelled to tassel up, so I set about slicing and dicing up a piece of leftover hide, whacking on some glue and a little attachment loop and what do you know. Tassels fix everything. I'm rather taken with my little clutch. It seems I can embrace imperfections after all. There might be a lesson there somewhere.<br />
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The Monkey and I agree though. We prefer it unfolded over folded. What do you think?SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-75643764559287282422017-08-06T19:36:00.002+10:002017-09-13T22:04:26.350+10:00LEATHERWORKED: HELLO BEAUTIFULWell hello, beautiful.<br />
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That's what I kept saying as this gorgeous bag came alive, piece by piece, in my hands.<br />
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It was only fitting that she should keep her name.<br />
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This is the first truly involved leather project I have worked. I've made a <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2014/04/sewn-bespoke-belt.html">belt</a>, a <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/07/sewn-bronzed-leather.html">clutch</a>, <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2016/09/leatherworked-spring-sling.html">oversized bag</a> and <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/11/leatherwork-i-made-shoes.html">sandals</a>. But in all those cases the patterns were drafted for me and provided at full scale, or in the case of the clutch, a very simple shape.<br />
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This bag came about after the utterly delightful and generous <a href="https://www.instagram.com/the_stitcher_and_gatherer/">Jen</a> contacted me to say she'd found this wondrous leather workbook on her opp shop circuit adventures. She thought of me, the clever woman, and much to my delight this amazing treasure trove of 70's leathercrafting and how-to's became mine.<br />
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Let me tell you, I devoured it as soon as I received it. My delight grew when I discovered it was published in the year of my birth. The projects are diverse ranging from bags of many sizes and shapes, sandals, belts, hats, neckties, aprons.... the list honestly goes on and on. And the introductory how-to chapters are fabulously informative and helpful.<br />
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I pretty much saw that bag on the cover though and thought <i>you will be mine</i>. My love of veg-tanned leather shoulder bags has a history. One where my amazing hubby drafted a bag pattern exactly to my specifications and then went on to make me the <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2014/11/sewn-bespoke-bag-of-love.html">Bespoke Bag of Love</a> which you can read about <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2014/11/sewn-bespoke-bag-of-love.html">here</a>. I use that baby every. single. day. She needs some serious leather-conditioning love. She's been loved almost to death. But because she is so beautifully crafted she'll be rejuvenated and live another day.<br />
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In the meantime, I felt this bag calling my name. Loudly and incessantly. A trip to Birdsall Leather later and a single shoulder of this beautiful cognac veg-tanned leather was mine. And coincidentally it matches my boots!<br />
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The most time consuming part of this project was drafting the pattern. As you can see from the book images above there was a tiny, pretty poorly detailed sketch of the pieces needed and their suggested scale. I'm fussy. I like certain curves. I like certain dimensions. I like certain strap lengths. So of course I went off piste... and prayed that when it came time to lace it together that everything would meet up. Spoiler alert! It did.<br />
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I used beautifully matching (I didn't like the contrasting lacing on the inspiration piece) cognac-coloured glazed roo (as in kangaroo) thong for the lacing, because unlike my other leather projects which were either sewn by hand or machine, this bag is laced.<br />
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Just like a <a href="https://www.toyplayhouse.com.au/farm-animals-lace-and-trace-by-melissa-doug?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz6rOp_7B1QIVygQqCh2n8Ae3EAQYAiABEgJjxfD_BwE">children's lacing game</a> you say? Not quite. I banged every single one of those 300 odd holes into all that 2.2mm thick leather. My forearms and hands will attest to it. I had to do it over several sessions of 60 or so holes each time. And no, the lacing wasn't simple like a child's lacing game. Bending and coaxing and cajoling that leather gusset into submission around those curves was freaking difficult, especially since you need to get that lacing super tight. I did use a lacing "needle" which helped feed the lace into the holes.<br />
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I did not line the bag, I actually prefer the rustic interior. The lacing is simply tied in a knot to finish and secure it or threaded under the lacing line.<br />
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In the end, strap length was determined by the maximum length I could cut out of my piece of leather and I'm actually really happy with it. I wear my other shoulder bag cross-body and I knew I wanted this to be different. This length is great, proportionally, on me.<br />
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The flap is secured by a strap that slips into a brass ring. The leather has some softening up to do before it sits low and perfectly in that ring, but that won't take long.<br />
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And those curves? I used some very hi-tech curve drafting devices. They included a glass tumbler rim, a round bottomed toothpick container and my <a href="https://merchantandmills.com/store/equipment/notions/pure-beeswax/">Merchant & Mills Tailor's Beeswax</a> box.<br />
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That very same beeswax was used on all raw cut edges which were then burnished with a wood slicker, which heats the wax and allows it to absorb into the cut edge. I chose this as my finish of choice instead of beveling the edges as directed because my edge beveling tool was getting a bit blunt, consequently dragging and warping the edges instead of cutting a lovely soft edge.<br />
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Those slightly fuzzy edges with smooth with loving use, so I didn't fuss too much.<br />
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To say I'm a little bit pleased would be a gross understatement. This bag with be by my side for many years to come. There might even be some sibling rivalry with that bespoke bag going on.SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-29470677963042158132017-05-11T17:31:00.000+10:002017-09-13T22:17:37.391+10:00SEWN: THE PRETENDERNo more easily accessible photographer (hubby) means it's back to the trees with me.<br />
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Is the enthusiasm palpable?<br />
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But don't let that face fool you about how excited I am by this dress/tunic thing!<br />
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Is it a tunic? Perfect to wear with my ever-present skinnies?<br />
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Is it a dress? A look I'm much less likely to wear often, but I love that I have the choice.<br />
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And I do have the choice. Which is so new to me.<br />
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When I make, I make with an entire <i>outfit</i> in mind. Not an item of clothing. Not a question of <i>how many ways can I wear this?</i> Often what you see here on the blog is what you get when you see me on the street. Because I never mess with what works. Not even to experiment. Some might call me boring, I call myself <i>happy with the norm.</i><br />
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But this garment is a pretender. I can channel my slightly more stylish side (perhaps undertaking a bit of pretending) and work it like a dress with tights and boots. <br />
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I can chuck it on first thing in the morning with skinnie blue jeans and metallic sneakers and work my day to day magic. Much more... <i>me. </i>Less pretending.<br />
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But pretending is OK. And choices are great.<br />
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And stripes! Matched beautifully at the shoulder and side seams (you'll have to believe me re the side seams). I pinned at every single stripe, I machine basted every single seam and then I overlocked. Overlocking slightly pushed the stripes out of alignment, but good lord - if you're going to look that closely at my seams we have bigger problems. I finished the hems with a twin needle.<br />
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I love that this dress/tunic is made out of a lovely soft and slinky double knit (I think it's a ponte but since knits are not my thing, I'm not sure). It's got a lovely weight and drape and its smooth finish means it skims happily over opaque tights or jeans without riding up. Win!<br />
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I sewed clear elastic in with the overlocking on the shoulder seam and reinforced the back neckline with the very last of my fusible knit stay tape.<br />
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It's holding its shape beautifully and if it launders well I may well have reached a knit happy place.<br />
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I'm loving the funnel neck which sits close to the back of my neck and drapes to more of a cowl shape at the front. <br />
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A typically amazing fit, as all Japanese patterns afford me, means that back is looking great.<br />
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This is <i>Pattern 02: Tunic</i> from the May Me Heart Warming Life Series. As it's untranslated you'll have to make do with the shots below.<br />
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I sewed a medium at the shoulder and bust and graded out to a large at the waist and LL (extra large?) at the hip according to my measurements. It's a good fit, but I probably could shrink back to a large at the hip next time. I'm always paranoid about tight fitting bottoms.<br />
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If I can find some more well-behaving double knit fabric, I can see a whole lot more of these in my future. Comfy knits might just become my thing.<br />
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<i> </i>SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-78474495875367560172017-03-12T19:00:00.000+11:002017-09-14T20:16:33.597+10:00SEWN: THAT'S A WRAPNow that's a corny, very unoriginal take on a title, right?<br />
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Somedays you got it, some you don't.<br />
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Today would be a <i>don't</i> day.<br />
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But: Yay! I'm blogging, so all is forgiven.<br />
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I've been making a little less this summer and far more thoughtfully. I don't know what's happening to me with age, but consumerism and the whole <i>having for having sake/making for making sake</i> is bugging me. It doesn't sit comfortably with me. I do love to make, but not so much that I have to make incessantly to feel my creativity is sated.<br />
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I wear a uniform 4 days out of 7. How many dresses/skirts/tops/insert item here does one person need? I'd rather have a thoughtfully created wardrobe that serves me well on those days I need one.<br />
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So my output and blogging has not been as great. Or when I've sewn it has been uncharacteristically unselfishly so: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BOnhkTohqgi/?taken-by=sewjillian">lovingly created swimsuits</a> received ecstatically by the Monkey, teacher gift <a href="http://www.patternfantastique.com/products/genoa-tote">Genoa Totes</a>, a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BQy_1tglkp-/?taken-by=sewjillian">much needed winter cowl</a> (never mind that it's the middle of summer). And on those days I chose not to create I ran.<br />
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And I feel good. I feel healthily balanced and creatively satisfied.<br />
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This is an awesome wrap skirt. A remake of what has become a TNT. The delightful vintage Simplicity 7395 first made in hot air balloon fabric (because... novelty fabric) <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2013/10/sewn-up-up-and-away.html">back here</a>.<br />
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This time I kept the length as drafted, which incidentally is well below the knee. I must have chopped a fair bit off last time. But after my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2016/12/sewn-shrinking-violet.html">recent midi dress love</a> I felt compelled to continue the theme. I think this may be ever so slightly too long to make it truly flattering. I have a very slight heel on these sandals and with flats it's a bit <i>meh. </i>Time will tell.<br />
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I do love the result. The fit is still superb (with no adjustments at all). I am, however, a bit disappointed with the <a href="http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/50326510/">Ikea fabric</a> I used. The print is stunning, but...<br />
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Unlike the fabric I used for <i>The Shrinking Violet</i> this one is printed on a stark white base. This means needles holes are visible and permanently so. I did need to unpick once and then had to re-sew the seam with a deeper seam allowance to avoid seeing the white dots from the unpicking. Topstitching was dicey for the same reason. Pray you don't have to unpick and redo. Oh and when that skirt wraps gets blown about you get this...<br />
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Also the surface has got some weird wear going on. On its first outing, I thought I leant on something dusty. But when I tried to sponge the "dust" off it didn't budge. It was like it created a wear spot/line immediately. I notice that the waistband is subject to the same fate where is wraps over itself. But really, it's meant as a <a href="http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/50326510/">home furnishing fabric</a>, and at $7.99/m what can one expect?<br />
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It irks me that the fabric quality means a short-lived garment (<i>grrrrr </i>to throwaway fashion), but it's a lesson learned and I'll simply enjoy it while it lasts.<br />
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And it is rather lovely.<br />
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Meanwhile, I'll just be over hear holding up this pole.<br />
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SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-16264762125788569772016-12-31T18:43:00.000+11:002017-09-14T09:18:39.325+10:00SEWN: THE ZIG-ZAG SUITThis is a story about a suit. A suit of wonder. A swimsuit with mysteriously magical powers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Um1wgIfCEyyoMc_NXBlYkPXOlvSQXriqrD1O32aOHvLDps2r1k5iVnZC8ghaxpNIMNab2m28DKDWVYy7sqWd_aV9-L5ULmaKIIPeqXuon6rqq-jy55pafvzSyvrHsmYnxfnkYPdR-NI/s1600/DSC_0906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Um1wgIfCEyyoMc_NXBlYkPXOlvSQXriqrD1O32aOHvLDps2r1k5iVnZC8ghaxpNIMNab2m28DKDWVYy7sqWd_aV9-L5ULmaKIIPeqXuon6rqq-jy55pafvzSyvrHsmYnxfnkYPdR-NI/s1600/DSC_0906.JPG" /></a></div>
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I never thought I'd experience the day when I would feel so supremely comfortable and amazingly confident in a swimsuit. Of any description.<br />
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Today, my friends, is that day.<br />
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Today I feel like I found the suit of my dreams. Made with my own hands.<br />
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A swimsuit that allows me to run <a href="http://www.eurweb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/baywatch.jpeg">Baywatch style</a> down the beach without my swimsuit bottoms disappearing into my butt (TMI?). Let's be clear. I have a butt. A generous butt. And no swimsuit has ever stayed in place. This one does not move a millimetre. <br />
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This is a suit that let me stand in front of a sandstone wall at a busy beach and shine like a freakin' supernova for photographs. Boo-yeah!!!<br />
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Ok, enough self-adulation. Let's go with <i>I feel quite pleased with myself and that's no mean feat</i>. But you better believe you're gonna get photo overload. <br />
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This is 1970's era Butterick 5449, a Gil Aimbez design.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That middle chick is seriously saying "Get your hand of my shoulder. Now".<br />
<a href="https://blog.pattern-vault.com/2016/08/09/designer-swimwear-vintage-patterns/">Image source</a></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I originally <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BIGGx5WAlw9/?taken-by=saraimitnick">saw this swimsuit</a> made up by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/saraimitnick/">Sarai</a>, founder of <a href="https://blog.colettehq.com/">Colette patterns</a> and decided I just. had. to. have. it. NOW! An ebay search led me straight to a copy available right here in Aus in my size. Yes, please!<br />
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Now in <a href="https://blog.colettehq.com/projects/project-diary-sarais-floral-swimsuit-part-1">blogging her suit,</a> Sarai did note that this pattern is sized for moderate stretch fabrics only and not the likes of modern nylon lycras. Sarai noted she removed about 4 inches from the hip and would probably grade the whole suit down in future makes.<br />
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I agree. I took the suit bottoms in a massive 6 inches at the waist and 2-3 inches at the hip. I might have even taken it in more in the final fitting, but that's what my toile shows. Yep, I had some dodgy lycra so decided to mock it up first. The final lycra behaved a little differently, but it was worth the exercise.<br />
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I also added 1cm to the length of the body at about the waistline. This added rise to the back waistline that I originally thought I could do without. But honestly I think it lends to the flattering rear visage.<br />
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I love the criss cross back. I love the zigs and zags of the swimsuit's lines.<br />
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Construction was challenging. I had to make it up as I went along. It took some zigging and zagging and eventually just going totally off piste. Sometimes you just gotta go with your gut and <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/12/sewn-my-moroccan.html">very limited</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BKKhkjdBoBO/?taken-by=sewjillian">swimsuit making</a> experience. So if you're interested in the changes I made and the construction I undertook, read on fearless reader. If you just want to see my awesome suit then scroll down for more pretty pics. <br />
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I fully lined the suit (change no. 1). I think it lends the outer lycra good support assisting in its longevity and... modesty. Let's not forget modesty.<br />
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The pattern has you bind the edges of the upper triangles with bias binding. Um, no (change no. 2). I bound the edges with lycra wrapped black rubber elastic - basically how you'd apply exposed binding to a neckline. You lay the right side of the lycra "binding" to the right side of the swimsuit fabric edge with a strip of elastic on top. Stitch with a zig-zag stitch. Then turn binding to inside and topstitch. I used a three-step zigzag for the topstitch on all bindings. Looks great.<br />
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I also added extra thin bra cups tacked between lining and outer (change no. 3). These are purely for my own modesty and do not add oomph. Something I usually crave, but... suit of magical powers. And someone told me the iconic 70's look is flat-chested. Nailed it.<br />
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The outside edges of the suit are bound in the same way as the triangles and let me tell you that's one hell of a continuous bind of about 3m, as those edges extend into straps that are also bound elastic. The long straps cross the back, slip through rouleau loops at the outer corners of the top triangles, and then tie at the back. I did consider using a bikini clasp but decided to go with the ties for now as I quite like the visual. (Note: the edges are finished totally differently if following the pattern where elastic casings are formed and then elastic threaded through. Again, that would have suited the available materials at the time of drafting, but eventuated with change no. 4).<br />
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I did have some issues with the original line of the bottoms especially around said butt. As the fabric this is designed for has less stretch than the lycra I used, the line of the butt was a bit funky (not in a good way) and suited to almost creating a bloomer effect. Which kept happening every time I applied elastic - which was a million freaking times. Either that or the edge would flip up. I ended up hacking into that line and basically creating a straight line from outside hip to crotch (originally it's quite curved). Enter change no. 5. That sorted the butt fit.<br />
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The lovely <a href="https://www.instagram.com/handmadebycarolyn/">Carolyn</a> of <a href="http://handmadebycarolyn.com.au/">Handmade by Carolyn</a> sorted out my elastic application issues, the darling woman. I love you, Carolyn! <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/12/sewn-my-moroccan.html">I'd used clear elastic before</a>, but really wasn't happy with the feel or finish it gave. Carolyn advised me to use braided swimwear elastic, which is her preferred elastic. I was a bit reticent at first as all my previous RTW suits used rubber elastic. Spoiler. I tried that and failed and then finally succumbed and the braided worked perfectly and is supremely comfy. Win! Lesson? Always listen to Carolyn.<br />
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Changes for next time, because #obvious. There will be a next time and a next time and a next time. I'll reduce the size of the upper triangles on the upper outer edge. Too high under arm and a bit too much ease (Remember? Flat chested). Perhaps try the bikini clasp - but I do really like the look of the tie.<br />
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I used a perfectly perfect <a href="http://fabfashionfix.com/zimmermann-swimwear-resort-2014/#prettyPhoto/4/">Zimmerman lycra</a> for this suit and I have enough left for a do-over when this one eventually disintegrates.<br />
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Anywho. Behold the suit. I'm so sorry. I know there are a shiteload of images but... squee! It's a big deal to feel this goddess-like. Be nice now...<br />
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I wish you all a very happy and peaceful New Year. Please let 2017 be a year that does not have us all shaking our heads and asking <i>why</i>? I'm off for a swim in the frigid depths now...<br />
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SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-46480690133961997462016-12-09T13:38:00.001+11:002017-09-14T20:28:16.700+10:00SEWN: THE SHRINKING VIOLETSometimes I need to shrink my world.<br />
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Retreat for a while.<br />
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Focus on the things in front of me.<br />
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About a month ago I started to wobble. I felt overwhelmed and unable to face the world. It wasn't very pretty and there was a part of me that thought I was going a little mad.<br />
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No doubt this year has been tricky and there have been numerous challenges to maintaining a cheery facade. I'm exhausted by the effort of the facade.<br />
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So I shrunk my world. Withdrew myself from the Instagram behemoth for a start. A platform that can make you feel part of a community, but can also start to have an unhealthy influence upon your own perceptions of your validity.<br />
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<i>How many likes did I get? How many comments?</i></div>
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I did not like how I felt or behaved in that world anymore. I did not like how my emotions were responding. Being part of the big bad social media world was hurting my heart. So I'm not there and I'm not sure when I'll be back again. And that's ok.<br />
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This dress was made a few weeks back when I was at my worst. I, unusually, didn't share any of its creation on IG. And it felt good to just focus on this small thing in front of me. To immerse myself in the joy of making for my own sake. And it was a joy.<br />
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This is vintage Simplicity 7454 made up beautifully by <a href="http://boodogg.blogspot.com.au/2016/02/the-sisterhood-of-travelling-pattern.html">Rachel</a> and <a href="http://clevertinker.com/2016/02/vintage-simplicity-7454/">Christy</a> last summer.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNs9gIpeLbZPyWyw_ehgnN4XgKFhyphenhyphenL2heflF_Mvl7V8EfcRPJwN_iLl5ilAi6eFeLklSJqefOmeKuzYpKZ5XcWc3k0j_yFa30Hi7KqytRveRVsf-U2JGyvaPDIEhoAJGZaw3p8pJddMV0/s1600/7454sp815.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNs9gIpeLbZPyWyw_ehgnN4XgKFhyphenhyphenL2heflF_Mvl7V8EfcRPJwN_iLl5ilAi6eFeLklSJqefOmeKuzYpKZ5XcWc3k0j_yFa30Hi7KqytRveRVsf-U2JGyvaPDIEhoAJGZaw3p8pJddMV0/s1600/7454sp815.jpeg" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Simplicity_7454">Image source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I immediately loved the style even though it was a bit different from my normal short sack dress (long sack dress? LOL!). Christy was kind enough to send me her pattern to borrow. Complication? No instructions.<br />
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I actually revelled in figuring out how <i>I</i> would make it up. It let my mind truly immerse itself in the moment, to find it's own order and watch that puzzle slot together.<br />
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The fabric is a moderately heavy cotton from IKEA in a design by Inga Leo <span style="font-family: inherit;">named </span><style>
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It's probably designed for home furnishings as it appears as curtaining in the IKEA catalogue. But we know I have a thing for heavy, full-bodied fabrics so it's kinda my happy place.<br />
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I departed from the design features of the pattern on a few occasions. I did away with the centre back slit opening and the prescribed self-tie finish. Both Christy and Rachel had noted they had found no need for a slit to allow getting the dress on and off and I found the same.<br />
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I have no idea how the fantastic, side seam patch pockets are supposed to be inserted, but I kinda just went with it and I mean seriously, how cool are they?<br />
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A little camouflaged in this fabric, but really they're just there for me and my hands and pleasure anyway.<br />
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The back straps appear to be fixed by buttons (internal/hidden?) based on the paper pattern pieces, but I simply finagled their positioning between the facing and the bodice after trying it on with the bra it would be worn with and then sewing them in with the bodice/facing seam.<br />
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This is a straight size S (8-10) with a slightly deeper side seam taken from the top to about 10cm down. This is the midi length with a 1/2 inch hem to maintain as much length as possible.<br />
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And I love it. I love the length. It makes me feel vaguely more sophisticated and put together and it means I'm unlikely to flash my knickers at unsuspecting passersby when crouching/bending to deal with my little one.<br />
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It's swishy and cool and when not being blown wildly in the wind (<i>ala</i> these photos) has a lovely shape that nips in at the bust and waist and then flares to the hem.<br />
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And I'm aware these photos are less than perfection and that's ok too. I just wanted to share my dress.<br />
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I'm off to watch said little one graduate from her first year at big school. Where on earth has the time gone??SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-54299284616126987712016-10-28T13:12:00.000+11:002017-09-14T09:10:24.645+10:00SEWN: OPPORTUNE BLUESI am definitely a summer person.<br />
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A cold-blooded (not like a murderer, as in reptilian. Actually... that sounds bad too. Gah!), warm weather yearner.<br />
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A person for whom cold weather is to be grouchily, and very ungracefully, tolerated, until the darling buds of spring deign to rear their pretty heads again.<br />
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Whilst my naturally white as the driven snow skin might trick you into believing otherwise, I am a lover of the sun (but always slathered in SPF50. Sun safety and all that).<br />
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As soon as Spring started to show its warm rosy little head in Sydney a month ago I started to obsessively scheme warm weather making. Are you motivated to make by specific seasons? My desire to sew is nowhere near as great in the colder months.<br />
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So how very opportune that I was walking past a local opp shop one day and just happened to stumble across the motherlode of all vintage frock pattern motherlodes??<br />
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And that's not all of them! All in my size! All of them!! From the era that makes my heart sing!! The angels sang and I snapped those babies up quicker than I could growl <i>come anyway near me and this amazing basket of patterns and risk certain injury</i>.<br />
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I adore Style patterns. No other pattern range draws me to their designs quite like Style patterns - at least those of the 70's. But, like most Big 4 patterns I have significant problems with ease and the need for copious adjustments (unlike my beloved Japanese patterns). I usually pick size 12 to try and hover somewhere between my bust and hips measurements which vary at least a size either side. But this bundle included some Size 10's. Including this one, my absolute favourite...<br />
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View 2. Oh view 2, how much I love thee. It could be the stripes. I didn't do stripes. Maybe next time.<br />
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With the loose skirt my hips could happily be accommodated. I did toile the bodice to make sure the fit wasn't too horrendous and lo and behold it fit pretty much perfectly! <br />
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Now fabric... can there be any doubt? I am a <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2014/10/sewn-indigo-alder.html">lover of indigo denim</a>. A <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/08/sewn-denim-disciple.html">big fat sucker for indigo denim</a>. If I could wear nothing else for the rest of my livelong days I'd be a <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2016/03/sewn-vintage-indigo-go.html">pig in mud</a>.<br />
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Happily I had a piece of mid-weight indigo denim in my stash purchased long ago for another make where I wrongly estimated yardage needs. Happy days!<br />
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I'm actually amazed and delighted that the fit is pretty much spot on sewn exactly as drafted. A definite first for me! <br />
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For next time (oh yes I'm fairly sure there will be a next time), however, I will move the dart point down a little as it definitely sits too high on my bust (didn't detect that at the toile stage). I think I have also hoiked the bodice higher than average as I don't like a deep V neck on me. Bony chest, so attractive.<br />
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With some judiciously placed topstitching I had just the right denim jeans type feel I was after. After <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BL2wEUghFUs/?taken-by=sewjillian">polling IG</a> I decided to sew the front straps down with blue thread (against all advice) as I didn't want to overdo the jeans look. I'm really happy with it as it's largely camouflaged and a clean finish. <br />
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I also had in my stash this amazing piece of crochet, also sourced years ago from an opp shop. As soon as I stumbled upon it again in a stash dive, I realised it was almost perfectly sized for a large patch pocket. And wow, how amazing it looked against the indigo denim.<br />
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The topstitching extended to straps and pockets. I even carefully topstitched down the denim of the crochet covered pocket as I'm not sure how long I'll keep the crochet on and wanted the option of taking it off.<br />
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I do notice that there is a very small amount of gaping at centre back. I have got a hook and eye above the zipper, but it's also likely that I needed to nip it in slightly at the side-seams. I just didn't want it to be too constrictive, but then you get that annoying slight gape, especially with crossed straps.<br />
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It's quite a different look for me. I am a lover of minis. But I was so inspired by the gorgeous <a href="http://tessuti.blogspot.com.au/2016/10/a-second-sundress-in-september.html">midi-length</a> <a href="http://tessuti.blogspot.com.au/2016/09/vintage-style-1944-sundress-in-september.html">frocks</a> Lisa of <a href="http://tessuti.blogspot.com.au/">Tessuti</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ6RJczBEia/?taken-by=rachelboodogg">Rachel</a> of <a href="http://boodogg.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/in-season-silk-competition-or-dress-of.html">Boo Dogg and Me</a> were churning out, I had to have one for my very own. And the length is awesome! I can bend down to deal with a small child and not flash my knickers! Win! Why didn't anyone tell me??</div>
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I also used my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BLzkeTmBn3D/?taken-by=sewjillian">new-to-me Singer 201P</a> (same as 201K) to sew this frock and that baby sewed through layers of denim like it was tissue paper. </div>
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And because any blog post would be incomplete without posing yet again in my one and only photo location, here's a last shot. I wouldn't want you to think I was going to start getting all clever with finding new locations of anything.</div>
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SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-57375304141652006632016-09-25T11:21:00.000+10:002017-09-14T20:30:32.162+10:00LEATHERWORKED: SPRING SLINGI bought the most marvelous leather hide over a year ago.<br />
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Burnished to a beautiful hue - neither gold, nor bronze, nor pewter or platinum.<br />
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But somehow a magical mix of all, straying to one hue or another in different lights and with various backgrounds.<br />
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Magical perfection. <br />
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And LARGE! So far I have made a <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/07/sewn-bronzed-leather.html">clutch</a>, <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/11/leatherwork-i-made-shoes.html">sandals</a> and this latest bag and I still have plenty left!<br />
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I had been dreaming of making a supersized tote out of this leather. I even stalked my neighbour's RTW tote, whose design lines and seaming intrigued me no end. I borrowed it and took photo after photo of all the details. But I just couldn't figure out how I'd achieve all the exposed seams and a similar pattern was not forthcoming.<br />
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And so my hide languished, occasionally brought out to be stroked and yearned over.<br />
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Then at the library last week, I stumbled across this book...<br />
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And lo and behold as I flicked through it's lovely projects, I saw this awesome sling bag...<br />
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And the decision was made. It's big, it's interesting, but still simple and stylish.<br />
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This make wasn't without swear words. Whilst the outside of this hide slides beautifully through the feed dogs of my Janome, the insides... oh my, the insides.<br />
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You see this beauty has a black heart. Literally. The backing of the hide has been dyed a very heavy black and the suede tends to flake off and get on everything. My Janome was not pleased or enamoured. Oh no, she spluttered and misstepped and basically told that leather to get the hell off her.<br />
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But I am nothing if not completely single-minded and bullish and I forced that baby through. I might want to consider a leather foot or walking foot for future leather projects, I know.<br />
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The topstitching was dicey to say the least. The bag is formed from four pieces, with the front and back composed of two pieces joined in the centre, with the handle cut on and seamed at the top. Those seams are sewn as normal with right sides together, then the seam allowances finger pressed open and topstitched down from the right side.<br />
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I used a size 16 leather needle and regular polyester thread to start, but realised the thread broke very easily which alarmed me (wasn't my regular Gutermann, let's just say that). So I switched to upholstery thread (which I used on my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/07/sewn-bronzed-leather.html">clutch</a>) which I do think is great for leather sewn on a machine. It's strong and I think it's weight is more visually appealing on anything above garment weight leather when the stitching is exposed.<br />
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Side and bottom seams are not pressed open or topstitched.<br />
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Needless to say I am ecstatic with the result and see myself getting bucketloads of use out of this. It's truly a statement bag and since metallics are my neutrals it'll go with pretty much my entire wardrobe... especially those lace ups...<br />
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Stay tuned to see my next pair of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BKe7_UvhpUx/?taken-by=sewjillian">leather sandals which are in progress</a>. Just waiting for an awesome water-based (non-toxic, yippee!) glue to arrive.SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-55266528328546241202016-07-16T16:32:00.000+10:002017-09-14T20:34:08.281+10:00SEWN: THE IMPOSSIBLY PERFECT TOPSometimes a fabric just screams to be scooped up and taken home to be loved and stroked and perhaps even made into a garment that makes you squeal <i>hell yes!</i><br />
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Special fabrics. Delightfully soft and spongy woolly fabrics.<br />
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In the most unusual and vibrant shade.<br />
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A golden shade. A shade of perfection.<br />
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In a boiled wool that surpasses all my previous experiences of boiled wool.<br />
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Even when said fabric is a small remnant 90cm x 150cm from <a href="http://pitttrading.com.au/">Pitt Trading</a> and you're in the habit of making voluminous tops of the trapeze/sack variety.<br />
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And that's where Japanese pattern books completely come to the rescue yet again.<br />
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This is <i>Pattern S </i>from a book with ISBN 978-4-579-11517-4 and my translator app tells me is titled <i>The Form of Clothes</i>. But I like <a href="http://clevertinker.com/2015/07/experimenting-rectangles-and-circles/">Christy's</a> interpretation after making up a piece. She made up the title <i>Rectangles and Circles with Head Holes</i>, which is kind of an accurate description!<br />
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As such it is untranslated, but after making up many many Japanese patterns before and based on the utter simplicity of construction it was a breeze to sew up. From tracing the pattern, to lengthening said pattern, to cutting and sewing - all up maybe 90 minutes max. That's partly due to the beauty of boiled wool which requires no edge finishing or hemming. Yeeha!<br />
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This is a very cropped over-top as drafted and since I am long bodied it would have hit at a weird place on my torso. The pattern calls for 90cm of fabric and my remnant when I measured it was closer to 1m. As a result I was able to add 5cm length to the top and I'm so pleased with the result. It's cropped, but not too cropped and in fact hits basically at the top of my jeans waistband when viewed from wearing height (all my photos are taken on a mound so the camera has to point up a little. It makes me look tall and my clothes short!).<br />
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The pattern calls for applying fusible stay tape to the neckline, lower hem edge and sleeve edges to stabilise those edges. I followed those directions except for the sleeve opening, as it would have been visible during wear. I also stabilised the entire length of the shoulder/sleeve top seam with the same fusible tape applied to the back seam allowance only.<br />
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The raw edges of the neckline, sleeve openings and hem are finished with a row of topstitching 1/8" in from the edge as directed by the instructions. This is to assist in ensuring fraying doesn't get out of control, which is not necessary with a boiled wool, but I figured it would stabilise those edges further.<br />
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My skin is normally quite sensitive to wool, but this fabric is so delightfully soft I can wear it directly against my skin. I am wearing a tank under the top in these shots, and in colder weather I'd add a long sleeved tee. I didn't pre-wash the fabric as... wool. It will have to be a dry clean only garment which I'm ok with as I will always have a layer underneath and wool is very good at repelling soiling. Famous last words??<br />
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I don't care, this top is such an impossibly perfect surprise I'm gonna kiss it and hug it and maybe even sleep with it. Yep, you read it here first!<br />
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And dang if it doesn't look fabulous paired with my new gold lace ups. It's a good day people, a good day.<br />
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SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-14188827787129564602016-07-02T08:30:00.000+10:002017-09-14T20:35:54.220+10:00SEWN: THE LOTUS COATSydney has been doing its darnedest to freeze my butt off this winter.<br />
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I know, I know, compared to other places in the world it's positively balmy.<br />
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But seriously, it's been the coldest it has been in 20 years. There's no snow, no sleet, not even a true cover of frost in the morning. But my poor body is not coping.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me shivering and looking grumpy about being outside in the cold</td></tr>
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I was not made for cold climes. My bones hurt, my skin resembles a lizard about to shed and I get tired of shivering. So much shivering. And my clients shrink away from my hands in horror at their frozen touch (it's ok, I am expected to touch them and it's not at all creepy... I swear).<br />
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Sydney homes are invariably not set up for cold weather. We have pathetic little heaters we drag out for about four weeks a year and swear next winter we're going to upgrade and get something a bit more effective.<br />
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But we never do. Because, <i>four weeks</i>! But lord those four weeks knock me off my normally warm little feet.<br />
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I needed a new coat, and fast. My <span id="goog_1830201499"></span><a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/06/sewn-hometown-jacket.html">Tessuti Sydney Jacket</a><span id="goog_1830201500"></span> was simply not cutting the mustard in this (frigid) cold with its (ridiculous) 3/4 sleeves (I still don't get that). So what's a maker to do? We make!!<br />
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I had a piece of mystery coating fabric I picked up for a song at <a href="http://my.salvos.org.au/about-us/contact-us/find-the-salvos-near-you/place/sesp/">a Salvos Store</a> a number of years ago that had been moldering in my stash. I'd known it was moth eaten along one edge, but I'd taken it with me anyway as I could tell that the rest (about 1.7m) was of reasonable quality. And then it just sat there.<br />
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I always thought that making a coat was too <i>fussy</i>. Involving too many tailoring techniques and such, when those who know me, know I like a quick-ish win.<br />
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But one can never forget the power of the Japanese pattern. How could I forget, since pretty much every item I make these days is from a Japanese pattern book? And after a little perusing I found the perfect match for my sensibilities and my stash fabric.<br />
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This is Coat 1-A from Aoi Koda's <i><a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2015/11/04/book-review-aoi-kodas-pattern-lessons-for-autumn-and-winter-wear/">Pattern Lessons for Autumn and Winter Wear</a>.</i><br />
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In my opinion there's a lot to love about this coat. It has the slightly more casual feel of a duffle coat (without the toggle closures I'm personally not that fond of) but with a nicely double-breasted closure. A soft, relaxed fit. A good partner to my everyday uniform of skinny jeans and boots.<br />
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Perfection. I just needed to figure out how to tetris my pattern around the moth eaten sections. And yay me! I did it!<br />
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In terms of the outer fabric it appears to be at least mostly wool. A burn test revealed nothing but natural fibre, and whilst I understand burn test results are often sullied in a mixed fibre cloth, there was absolutely no chemical smell or hard melted beading. And, shock horror, given that the fabric cost me next to nothing I decided to toss it in the washing machine on a wool cycle to pre-treat it and not only did it weirdly survive perfectly, but it stunk of wet sheep. Good enough for me.<br />
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I cut according to my measurements with a size 9 at the shoulder and bust, an 11 at the waist and a 13 at the hip (yes, hello pear). I did toile it in a delightful (not) piece of yellow corduroy to check fit and the only changes I made were to add 1cm to the length of the arms and 3cm to the jacket hem. I wanted it to cover my tush and it does rather nicely now.<br />
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The pattern calls for a different fabric for the under collar and back neck facing. I'm not sure what kind of fabric was suggested as my translator app completely threw up its hands. But I had a vision. A vision of using my carefully hoarded 1/2 yard of <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/aw-148/amy-butler-lotus-wall-flower-cherry">Amy Butler Lotus Wall Flower fabric</a>. I don't even know what I was thinking when I purchased this 1/2 yard (!!) piece probably five years ago. But hooray! It finally found it's perfect home.<br />
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I just adore the pop of collar and whilst the weights of the fabrics are quite vastly different, I still think it works beautifully.<br />
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In my planning phase I also envisioned yellow binding used to finish the edges of the front and back facings. The pattern called simply for overlocking or zizagging the edges and that would have been adequate... but a bit <i>un-special</i>. I imagined my coat blowing open and seeing a cheerful pop of yellow against the black. Then I thought, why stop at that? I'll bind the sleeve and coat hem edges too instead of the double fold hem suggested.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmy5cgYA211Ip_WGR4LheW9CINR6WUVjJ9xWl-lrYhEc-Zd8eCaJGaVCef2YKMKu0NCFnY9NYlE9YrKEr9nkq6VA50oiPS9tXJogTu9P-uAzETfjFpaJGPjXyRA2ObLGQOzdyn3PshXNw/s1600/DSC_0634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmy5cgYA211Ip_WGR4LheW9CINR6WUVjJ9xWl-lrYhEc-Zd8eCaJGaVCef2YKMKu0NCFnY9NYlE9YrKEr9nkq6VA50oiPS9tXJogTu9P-uAzETfjFpaJGPjXyRA2ObLGQOzdyn3PshXNw/s1600/DSC_0634.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This fabric seriously attracts link like nobody's business. I swear it's not pilling already.</td></tr>
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And what easier or better way to bind than using my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2013/08/vintage-gifts-for-vintage-birthday.html">Singer Featherweight</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BHBUz6ZhT8P/?taken-by=sewjillian">its miraculous binding foot</a>?? Genius, just genius. <br />
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Then of course I had to have the yellow buttons to tie the look together. Because black is not normally my "thing".<br />
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I reinforced the pocket openings with the little triangle stitch thingy I always do on patch pockets and I'm kind of cursing myself that I didn't at least reinforce the pocket opening with stay tape if not actually fusing the entire patch. I can see how it <strike>might</strike> will stretch out what with me constantly shoving my hands deep down seeking warmth. Ah well you live and learn.<br />
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I went off piste from the instructions when I completely interfaced (fused) the front and back facing with whisper weft (or the medium weight version of this. I relied on the lovely <a href="http://measuretwicecutonce.com.au/">Susan</a> to advise me when I purchased these at <a href="http://pitttrading.com.au/">Pitt Trading</a>). I really felt it would better stabilise the edges, and the front as a whole, than the suggested fusible stay tape around the facing edges.<br />
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The pattern was untranslated which presented a few challenges since I'd never really made a coat before (the Sydney doesn't really count). I had made my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/05/sewn-mindbending-mona.html">Jacket Mona</a>, but I was still puzzling over some of the diagrams. I had the genius idea to check some of my English translated tomes and lo and behold there were a few jacket patterns and the one step I couldn't quite work out was solved.<br />
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And in the end, I freakin' nailed it!!<br />
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Nailed. It.<br />
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<i>P.S. Sorry for the deluge of photos, I'm just so crazily proud!!!</i>SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-42365774813546612372016-06-22T17:23:00.000+10:002017-09-22T12:39:37.426+10:00HOOKED, WORKED, SEWN: THE CRAFTING OF A GIFTThis was truly a labour of love.<br />
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A crafty undertaking of the gift variety.<br />
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A sneaky way to share a new addiction with a friend.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>To pass on my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BDmbmvFvvIP/?taken-by=sewjillian">very recent addiction to crocheting</a>, which was patiently passed onto me by Leah of the blog <a href="http://misspippilotta.com/">Miss Pippilotta</a>.<br />
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Because who wouldn't want to give a maker friend yet another craft to become absorbed by?<br />
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I present to you <i>The Crochet Roll</i>!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0O5tfHZsZ8IXW9X8eVBNhqdwUk8qFaHyxJGVnbAZBue1fwlAM7fGaggXTz6ET1vYh2d07p-3hpA4OrlhGDj7Y9f1W61qZNfIrsZ32y1YTmozWDn0mnvzEVeYzbPRRGfapnp2GYb6OA8k/s1600/DSC_0472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0O5tfHZsZ8IXW9X8eVBNhqdwUk8qFaHyxJGVnbAZBue1fwlAM7fGaggXTz6ET1vYh2d07p-3hpA4OrlhGDj7Y9f1W61qZNfIrsZ32y1YTmozWDn0mnvzEVeYzbPRRGfapnp2GYb6OA8k/s1600/DSC_0472.JPG" /></a></div>
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This is a project I found and then adapted to my own specs from <i><a href="https://www.bookdepository.com/Creative-Makers-Simple-Crochet-Sara-Sinaguglia/9781845336998">Creative Makers: Simple Crochet</a> </i>by <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/designers/sara-sinaguglia">Sara Sinaguglia</a>. I did forget to take a snap of the book before returning it to my local library. Whoops!<br />
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I actually really rate this book. I made a potholder of Becky Home-eccy epicness and I'm in the process of going <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BF5Xg9_vvFN/?taken-by=sewjillian">apple cozy crazy</a>. I reckon any book where you <i>actually</i> make more than one of the patterns is a good investment. Or simply borrow it from your local library like I did.<br />
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I loved this crochet roll from the get-go. I was attracted to the mix of crochet, linen and leather. It spoke to my raveling/leatherworking/sewing proclivities.<br />
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But like every crochet project I've undertaken to date I didn't imagine crafting it for myself, but for my dear friend <a href="http://www.bloglessanna.com/">Anna</a>. Anna has one of the kindest, most open hearts I've ever had the pleasure of meeting. I wanted to thank her for her friendship and generosity in a personal way. This crochet roll is not just a gift of tools but a promise to teach her the craft (in my newbie, make it up as I go along way) the next time we meet.<br />
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What you see here above my friends is the outer of the crochet roll. It's a little Tunisian/Afghan crochet. Take a <i>goooooood</i> long look because you ain't gonna see anymore Tunisian crochet on this blog anytime this century. Oh my dear lord, the pain! The jaw clenching completion of each row (which is actually across and back) with my hands screaming. I aimed to complete only five rows at each sitting - that's all I had in me. Maybe I'm just not tough enough, but I can do any other type of "traditional" crochet or knitting for hours on end with no ill effect.<br />
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Speaking of generosity, this stunning linen/cotton inner fabric was gifted to me by the lovely Anna herself, soon after I started the outer. When it arrived I knew immediately it was a perfect tonal match for the yarn so it was absolutely meant to be.<br />
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That dodgy, crocheted, granny square type thingy on the inside? Well that was a very early attempt at working with 4ply cotton yarn before I actually had the right sized hook. So it's super loose and kinda amateurish, but it's the thought that counts right??<br />
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I adjusted the dimensions of the roll to fit my finished piece of Tunisian crochet and fastened the lot with a buttery strap of luscious leather I just happened to have lying around.<br />
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And then I lovingly wrapped it and posted it on its way with a promise for crochet lessons next time we meet. From one maker to another, and more importantly, from one dear friend to another.SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-78214471079373339762016-06-11T15:52:00.000+10:002017-09-14T20:39:04.708+10:00SEWN: THE TILT TOPDid you feel it too?<br />
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A slight change in the atmosphere, a tilting of the earth's axis?<br />
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No? Just me?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keepin' it real with my grey roots</td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a>Quite the turn up this top is. Those who know me, know my dislike of sewing knit fabrics and my bewilderment towards the hype around ponte in particular.<br />
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I've had trouble getting the resurgence in the popularity of sewing with ponte. Ponte is just so... old lady. Yep, I said it. It reminds me of old lady pants (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crimplene">crimplene</a> anyone?) and could not feel more... synthetic-y. <i>Shudder</i>.<br />
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And reports seem to suggest it can pill like a crazy thing. Why is this fabric so appealing?<br />
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Ok, so it behaves nicely for a knit. Whilst my machine made an awful loud <i>punching</i> sound every single stitch (what is with that?), it fed smoothly with no distortion and no skipped stitches (once I worked out ponte hates ballpoint needles and loves a universal).<br />
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So, why my change of heart? I saw this gorgeous fabric on the clearance table at Spotlight. I think it cost me all of about $5 for a 1.3m piece, all that was left on the bolt. I knew it was ponte, but I was drawn to its yummy dark eggplant hue and its spongey thickness. I think this is quite a heavy ponte, by ponte standards. It reminds me a little of scuba knit (which I used <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/03/sewn-scuba-and-leather-clutch.html">here</a>).<br />
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And I thought <i>what the heck, if I hate what I make with it, it won't make me cry</i>. And what do you know? I LOOOOOOOOOVE this top!!!<br />
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This<i> </i>is<i> Square Top, No. 11 </i>from <i>She Wears the Plants </i>by Yuko Takada.<br />
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I've coveted this weird top for some time. But... knit fabrics.<br />
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<a href="http://kbfield.blogspot.com.au/2013/07/finished-boardwalk-jersey-square-cut.html">Kirsty</a> and <a href="https://sewingwithkate.wordpress.com/2015/07/05/its-hip-to-be-square/">Kate</a> have made <i>gorg</i>eous versions and I knew as soon as I brought this fabric home that it had found its pattern mate.<br />
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It's actually designed to be worn two ways and those buttons are meant to be functional. I, however, have no intention of wearing a weird shrug thingy with even weirder empty sleeves just hanging there so I sewed through the overlap to permanently affix my buttons. <br />
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I don't work with plain dyed fabrics very often, preferring bright and generally loud prints. I was feeling a bit <i>hmmmmmm</i> about the top until I figured out the button situation. I actually bought a set of teal green buttons to use along the shoulders at the same time as a dodgy little packet of buttons I planned to use for another project. Guess which ones won? No two buttons are alike, but are the same colours - all jade buttons are the same jade and all orange ones are the same shade of orange, but the actual designs are different. Just the perfect amount of quirk to send a ho-hum make into <i>woooooooohooooooooo</i> territory.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me checking if the world's axis really had tilted</td></tr>
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It's the simple things, right?<br />
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And this is why I love sewing. I get to have clothes I just couldn't find in a shop. Clothes that are utterly <i>me</i>. Clothes that if they were in a shop would be in those frighteningly trendy cool kid stores I'd never enter. Or so expensive as to be prohibitive. Hello sub-$10 top.<br />
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And I get to wear them with my quirky shoes. A match made in heaven...<br />
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I knew you wanted to see them, because all sewists are shoe lovers too, right? <a href="http://www.mimco.com.au/">Mimco</a>, several seasons old. My pixie shoes.<br />
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Are we sure the earth's axis didn't tilt??SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-1485364541387673282016-05-20T13:37:00.002+10:002017-09-22T12:40:14.169+10:00SEWN: THE NON-CLASSIC SHIRTNothing like a snappy project title, hey? I got nothing, sorry.<br />
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This is about as close to a classic shirt as I get. I did have intentions of making a button down shirt, with cuffs, and tower plackets, and a collar stand... and then I slapped myself. Who am I kidding? I just knew I wouldn't wear it.<br />
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I love them on others, but feel ridiculous in them myself. I don't know why, but perhaps I'm just not "classic".<br />
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<a name='more'></a>But it does have a collar! If only a camp collar with no collar stand.<br />
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I love the colours in this mid-heavy weight cotton canvas. Tones of blue, grey, teal and even taupe.<br />
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It might be an upholstery fabric... just sayin'. It was in the clearance section of the furnishing fabrics, but it felt lovely and soft on the bolt. Disappointingly it went kind of <i>stiff</i> after pre-washing. Weird...<br />
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But it does give the shirt some body which you all know I'm very fond of.<br />
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This is my version of <i>Pattern J</i> from this book...<br />
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So sorry people, it's not translated and my translator app clearly isn't feeling friendly because what is gave me when trying to translate the text on the front cover was nonsense. If anyone can help with the translation that'd be ace! I've taken to calling it "<i>The book with 3 girls on the front".</i> Very inventive, I know. In fact, this shirt is that one, there on the left of the cover shot.<br />
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There are some lovely style lines to this, with an absence of side seams created by the 4 panel construction - front, back and two side panels. The vertical seams are topstitched and I like how it helps to create structure. My fabric is very busy so it hard to see...<br />
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And that kooky pocket is right up my alley. Interestingly shaped and with an opening on the side, not top. So it's um..... pretty useless. But pretty!<br />
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The facing edges are all turned under and topstitched down making the insides quite lovely and with no annoying facings flapping around. My pet hate.<br />
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I made a straight size 7-9 and it fits me beautifully. I did end up sewing a 1cm single fold hem instead of the drafted double fold as it was going to be a little short for my taste. I'm happy with where it ended up, especially as I've been rather into <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BFSPyJ6vvJ8/?taken-by=sewjillian">longer</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BFUtz7wvvOl/?taken-by=sewjillian">tunics</a> over jeans and this offers a slightly different look. I do find the neck slit to be very low cut. I always intended on wearing it over a tank, but I really have no choice. Next time I might bring it up a little.<br />
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Seriously, I am very lucky that, on the whole, Japanese patterns seem to be drafted <i>just for me</i>. I'm addicted and find I now reach only for my extensive Japanese pattern book collection anytime I want to make something.<br />
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Let's address the elephant in the room shall we? I was sick of the sight of myself, so brought out the <a href="http://www.ghdhair.com/au">GHD</a>. I forgot what I looked like with straight hair and how long it really is. I'm going to enjoy it for the 5 minutes it lasts before the vaguest humidity sends it into a frizzy horrid mess. Yeeha!<br />
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And finally, that last shot shows why I never smile fully in blog shots. I look like a complete doofus... <br />
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SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-61689956264149059782016-05-06T15:00:00.000+10:002017-09-22T12:40:36.206+10:00SEWN: BIRDS OF A FEATHER PULLOVERA pullover of feathers.<br />
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Beautifully printed feathery feathers.<br />
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Grey on grey.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Boxy over skinnies.<br />
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I guess my love for loose, boxy tops and dresses knows no bounds. And pockets. Always pockets.<br />
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It's pretty damned perfect.<br />
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This is the <i>Patch Pocket Pullover (Pattern F_1)</i> from <a href="http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2012/10/19/book-review-simple-chic/" target="_blank"><i>Simple Chic</i></a> by 大川友美.<br />
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I purchased this book a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BC4LawqvvBJ/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">few months ago</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEmpSc2vvPB/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">my lovely friend Kate,</a> of <a href="https://sewingwithkate.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Sewing with Kate</a>, mentioned she loved this pattern. We really are birds of a feather. I totally dig her style and have coveted many of her pieces. Since this pattern was one of the main reasons I purchased the book I suggested we do a joint project. Each of us sewing it in our own spaces, with our own sense of style, and then showcasing our creations at the same time. <a href="https://sewingwithkate.wordpress.com/2016/05/06/simple-chic-and-my-sewing-buddy/" target="_blank">You should see Kate's</a>! Looking great in a soft and drapey pink and grey herringbone, showing how different fabrics can give the top a new look.<br />
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Be aware that patterns in this book are <i>one size fits all</i>, and let's face it, that's rarely worked out well for anyone. This is the pattern sewn exactly as drafted. It fits me well and I love the oversized shape (which the pattern intends), but you might want to check the finished measurements which are noted with the instructions. The shoulders are quite wide and those little gussets don't sit <i>quite</i> right. I might try to redraft them a little next time. <br />
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I chose to use this fairly heavy Montreaux Drill from Spotlight. I knew I wanted to make this a warmer top, to be worn with jeans and perhaps layered over a long sleeved tee in winter. This fabric sat winking at me from below a pile of rejects. That perfect grey on grey, the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEIQQnqPvDd/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">sheeny look to the fabric</a> and the perfect feather print just screamed at me to be taken home. Even if grey is decidedly not my colour.<br />
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Nothing that a spot of bronzer and a colourful lippy can't fix!<br />
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That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I adore the end result.<br />
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It's utterly everything I'd hoped for and it's a look I'll happily adopt this autumn/winter. I can see a few more of these in my future. I'm thinking a soft drapey wool would be heavenly. And seriously I am digging this silhouette with my brand spanking new <a href="https://bared.com.au/store/detail_product/Womens/Kingfisher-2-Toffee-Ankle-Boot-" target="_blank">Bared boots</a>.<br />
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It's love, people. Pure, unadulterated maker love. SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-34015826760879116862016-03-24T16:44:00.001+11:002017-09-14T21:23:12.009+10:00SEWN: VINTAGE INDIGO-GODenim.<br />
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Indigo denim.<br />
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Is there any other kind? I think not, not in my world.<br />
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And then there is vintage. An even better kind of denim.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Gorgeous vintage stretch indigo blue denim. I was gifted this fabric along with a few other amazing pieces by a dear friend a few years ago and it has languished in the stash ever since. I'm thinking it's 20-30 years old, but admit to not knowing for sure.<br />
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And topstitched denim. Can it get any better?<br />
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Luscious coppery coloured topstitching thread.<br />
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Exposed facings.<br />
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Raw edges beginning to fray and show their perfect white weft threads.<br />
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Ginormous pockets!!<br />
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There's a lot to love...<br />
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You know when you have a vision? A vision of a dress that could quite possibly blow your mind, if only it worked. This is my vision and it has completely lived up to its expectations.<br />
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This is of course my now tried-and-true <i>Pattern N Deep-Pocket Shift with Ruffle Trim</i> from Yoshiko Tsukiori's <i>Stylish Dress Book: Clothing for Everyday.</i> This is my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/01/sewn-sunshine-on-rainy-day-dress.html" target="_blank">third</a> <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/02/sewn-pineapple-punch.html" target="_blank">iteration</a> of this pattern and I decided there was only room for one of these shifts with <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/01/sewn-sunshine-on-rainy-day-dress.html" target="_blank">epic ruffles in my wardrobe</a>. I don't feel like wearing "costume" everyday of the week.<br />
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There's not a lot more to say about this one other than I hemmed it a little longer than my other versions, mainly because I sewed it specifically as a dress to be worn in all seasons, from summer right through winter with the addition of a long sleeved tee under or a cardigan and coat over. Add tights and boots and I'll be good and cozy to go.<br />
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But for now.... hello lingering Sydney summer...<br />
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<br />SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-4599617063317763412016-03-04T18:44:00.000+11:002017-09-14T21:24:39.537+10:00SEWN: THE BOTANICAL TANKThere's not actually much to say about this tank. But there is a story to tell about how it came about.<br />
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First, the tank. You'll <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2016/02/sewn-conchetta.html" target="_blank">recognise the fabric</a> and I'm so very happy I had just enough to eek out this top! It's <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2014/03/sewn-little-top-that-finally-could.html" target="_blank">another</a> <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/collections/tops/products/pocket-tank" target="_blank">Grainline Studio Tiny Pocket Tank</a> (sans pocket). I started with <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2014/03/sewn-little-top-that-finally-could.html" target="_blank">my small bust adjusted pattern</a> from last time and made a few changes.<br />
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I raised the neckline by a further inch (my first version was raised by 2 inches) to bring it up a grand total of <i>3 inches</i>!!! I know I'm not a huge fan of deep scoops (personally I don't find them altogether flattering for a small bony chest), but man that original neckline would be around my belly button. I'm so happy with where it sits now.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I also lowered the bust dart point a little when I noticed that my last adjustment left those darts points a little high. I think I should probably have moved the dart point back a teensy bit too, but meh, there is always next time.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFj-3WK5ktSOC6VnNZRXKWFqnqxfg8QMVpBCilh8meTNHgy2qk3JgyYKpbnxaQQeLi0wnVg8XsKfG2CF_5LMv9xnEpZYNtiSflV2eCo2sSstSIunFNJCUJZx9q_UHCJCBZCjxlLZSvQ8/s1600/DSC_0200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFj-3WK5ktSOC6VnNZRXKWFqnqxfg8QMVpBCilh8meTNHgy2qk3JgyYKpbnxaQQeLi0wnVg8XsKfG2CF_5LMv9xnEpZYNtiSflV2eCo2sSstSIunFNJCUJZx9q_UHCJCBZCjxlLZSvQ8/s1600/DSC_0200.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front armscye gaping</td></tr>
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As an aside I found out the hard way that raising the neckline considerably also has the effect of making the upper bust area smaller. The ease, and the capacity for those straps to sit comfortably across the upper chest/shoulder, is partly due to the lack of fabric between them in a lower cut neckline. Raising the neckline 2 inches kept things fitting beautifully - raising it another inch has left that upper bust snug and the front armscye strains out away from the body. It's actually not obvious all the time, but grrrrrr. I'll have to sort out a fix for the next one. I do like this basic tank.<br />
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But why this top? Why now? Well a couple of weeks ago my closet rail literally, completely, collapsed. Let's be clear, I didn't have a ridiculously large amount of clothes and I know that rail was flimsy and about 35 years old (dodgy old wardrobe), but I felt like the universe was sending me a pretty clear message. I was being ninja'd - it was a ninja <a href="http://tidyingup.com/bios/marie-kondo" target="_blank">KonMari</a> intervention!! Decluttering may not always be the most fun thing to do, but this collapse presented the perfect motivation.<br />
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I went nuts. Completely, decluttering nuts. I took a leaf out of <a href="http://boodogg.blogspot.com.au/" target="_blank">Rachel</a>'s book. Rachel recently decluttered and estimates she got rid of about two thirds of her wardrobe using some pretty simple but incredibly effective criteria such as... <br />
<ul>
<li>Was the piece worn in the most recent season?</li>
<li>Is there something just not quite right: the colour, fit, fabric, length?</li>
</ul>
Pretty simple, right? It all comes down to joy in some ways - does this item spark joy (a cornerstone of the KonMari method)? I was ruthless. I really did have a whole heap of RTW clothes in particular that never quite fit, were not the right fabric/colour, would not suit my current or future career and everyday life. There were even a few me-made items that did not make the cut. And I really was ok with that. Every last piece (unless it was actually worn out) was donated to a local charity shop. So it will hopefully go to a new home where it will be happily worn and spark joy in the new owner.<br />
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How incredibly liberating. I really paid attention in my decluttering and those decisions now inform my every clothing decision.<br />
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Like: I don't really like wearing knits. Which is totally weird as I happily wear a knit cotton (uniform) t-shirt to work everyday with lycra on the bottom half. In context that stuff is ok, but I would not wear it in my non-work life (Except when I'm training. Dammit this is really not going in my favour!).<br />
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I like wovens, plain and simple. I typically feel most comfortable in tops with a loose, swingy silhouette. For separates I like prints mixed with denim. My wardrobe was now comparatively bare of tops and I had to toss my ancient denim shorts as they were both ill-fitting and horribly worn out.<br />
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Hence, I made a woven, printed tank and I'm wearing it with a newly purchased pair of denim shorts.<br />
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Yep, RTW shorts. I have a love/hate relationships with shorts - they never fit me. And life is too short to undertake a me-made pair with all the inherent fitting woes for something I consider slouchy clothes. I bought this well-fitting pair with no regrets. They also cost a ridiculous amount of money. But I don't care because rather than several pairs of ill-fitting cheaper shorts making a home in my wardrobe that are grudgingly worn, I have this one perfect pair. Win! And one pair is all I need.<br />
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To wear with numerous lovely, me-made, swingy, woven summer tops.SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-86936350130883671782016-02-09T15:59:00.001+11:002017-09-22T12:41:31.093+10:00SEWN: CONCHETTA<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Meet Conchetta.<br />
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Ah now, that's not quite true. That isn't Conchetta... this is!<br />
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Isn't she lovely?? No, just me? Come on, who doesn't adore a full metal beast from the 80's that purrs like a kitten and sews like a dream?<br />
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And this 80's lady is super special to me. You might recall we lost my father-in-law last October and he was quite the renaissance man. He learnt to sew as a young boy and went on to sew his own curtains, reupholster couches, you name it, as an adult. This was his machine and it has come home to me to be lovingly safe-guarded and most importantly, used. She was in awesome condition and with a little bit of lubing and cleaning she has proved herself to be quite the little machine.<br />
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This dress is the first project I've sewn with her.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Had you fooled for a second didn't I? You thought this wasn't yet another sack dress. But she is a sneaky sack, giving the illusion of some shape at the front, but being all sack business at the back.<br />
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I've been intrigued but this pattern since I got my hands on Aoi Koda's <i>Pattern Lessons for Autumn and Winter Wear.</i> Even though it is quiet clearly summer here in the southern hemisphere.<br />
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This dress is Lesson 3A.<br />
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You can see more detail in the picture from the book sewn up in a plain. But those who know me, know I haven't yet come to the party with a love of plains and so I chose to sew it up in this surprisingly delightful find at Lincraft. A vibrantly printed, mid to heavy weight rayon linen blend I scored in their 40% off sale at Xmas and purchased with a gift card. Win!<br />
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It attracted a lot of love from other sewists when I <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/_va4MKPvEz/?taken-by=sewjillian" target="_blank">posted it on IG</a> and I ended up going back for more for the lovely <a href="http://www.adaspragg.com/" target="_blank">Sophie of Ada Spragg</a> when she sweetly asked if I could do so. I mean how could I resist enabling a fellow sewist? In the end, a bit of detective work by Sophie and then myself, led us to see this very fabric made up in these fabulous trousers on Pinterest.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr81sYq792PnSByG4GBCz2BPv6j1-bSjk5ruJBAluqgTi1PXGUnpp8VdrMaYdPB9FfKsGbKp31y91x26JGibadcdpcCC-GawZgdTF0-OSXShRLZxxk01my0hyphenhyphen-GTCvcunHWkII9Rx4Wdo/s1600/inspire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr81sYq792PnSByG4GBCz2BPv6j1-bSjk5ruJBAluqgTi1PXGUnpp8VdrMaYdPB9FfKsGbKp31y91x26JGibadcdpcCC-GawZgdTF0-OSXShRLZxxk01my0hyphenhyphen-GTCvcunHWkII9Rx4Wdo/s1600/inspire.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/source/crushculdesac.tumblr.com" target="_blank">Photo source</a></td></tr>
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No amount of additional sleuthing has helped me to find out the designer or label, so I apologise for that, but hell we don't need to know right? My creation is way better. Bwahahaha!<br />
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Don't you just love the design of the front?<br />
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You actually cut out a half circle on the front bodice, gather the lower curved edge and then align it with the straight upper edge of the half circle and sew them together. This is followed by creating a pleat to hide that seam and sewing it down. Clear as mud? Hmmm trust me on this. What results is that hi-lo hem and waterfall type front. <br />
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The design is drop shouldered as can be seen, and can also be made up with long sleeves. As a result the armhole is hugely gapey. Hugely. If you lift your arm at all unfortunate passersby can see right inside to the chest delights below. I knew this might be an issue and am wearing it with a white tank to preserve my modesty and spare the eyes of others.<br />
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According to the pattern, this is the dress length. The sleeveless version is actually designed as a tunic length. I sewed a straight size 7 including the prescribed dress length and whilst that resulted in a much longer hem at back than I would normally wear, the front, which gets hoiked up, could not be shorter or risk indecency.<br />
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The fit is just lovely. Since it's so oversized I chose to sew a size with a bust measurement slightly smaller than mine and I'm happy I did. You can see that it drapes nicely and looks "right".<br />
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I used a hook-and-eye closure rather than my usual button and loop and I really like the clean finish at the back neck.<br />
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The book is not translated from Japanese so some experience working with English translated Japanese pattern books would be useful, to help get a feel for the usual techniques. As I've noted before the diagrams and/or photographs of the construction steps in these books is very clear, especially to a visual learner like me. But just to be sure I used a photo translator app (Scanner&Translator for iPhone) which proved surprisingly accurate.<br />
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In the end I really like the dress. I've styled it very casually with flat <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/11/leatherwork-i-made-shoes.html" target="_blank">me-made sandals</a>, but it looks fantastic dressed up with heels and I can see it made up in a silk for a slinky night-time cocktail dress. I was off to a BBQ following this shoot and I was breezily comfy all day whilst still feeling rather stylish. It's a woohoo people, yet another woohoo!SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-9937121168308206242016-02-03T15:31:00.001+11:002017-09-14T21:28:56.669+10:00SEWN: THE HOMAGEThe homage. A dress worthy of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/melbournefrocktails/" target="_blank">Melbourne Frocktails</a>.<br />
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I actually decided soon after Frocktails tickets were released and I snaffled mine up that I wouldn't be making a new dress for the occasion. I adore my <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/09/sewn-anniversary-dress.html" target="_blank">Anniversary Dress</a> and really wanted to wear it again, plus the timing of the event (the second week of Jan) was awkwardly wedged amongst the Xmas/New Year period and a family holiday. I really didn't think it'd be a great time to undertake something complicated.<br />
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Then I must have forgotten that... possibly because I started obsessing all things trapeze and stumbled across <a href="https://www.lyst.co.uk/clothing/alexander-mcqueen-flower-jacquard-trapeze-dress-black/?product_gallery=53263264" target="_blank">this dress from Alexander McQueen</a>. Oh yes, that is quite the perfect trapeze.<br />
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I was a goner!<br />
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I also figured I wouldn't need to purchase a new pattern as I had made a few <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/11/sewn-no-bow-marimekko.html" target="_blank">trapeze</a> <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/02/sewn-no-bow-tunic.html" target="_blank">tunics</a> from <i>Feminine Wardrobe</i> by Jinko Matsumoto. It just so happens that this pattern can be made into dress length as well. Oh and I'd been given a gift voucher for Lincraft and whilst I held little hope of finding the right fabric there, lo and behold, there it was! A luminous bronze-y, silvery and purple brocade. We all know my love of brocade...<br />
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<a name='more'></a>It may not be clear from the shots above and my busy fabric but the pattern (for the bodice at least) is a six panel trapeze. At first I really wanted to try to do away with the "princess" seams, but that meant dart manipulation and all sorts of try and toile and try again. I just didn't have time!<br />
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So I kept the <a href="https://www.lyst.co.uk/clothing/alexander-mcqueen-flower-jacquard-trapeze-dress-black/?product_gallery=53263264" target="_blank">original Mcqueen design of a dress</a> with attached bodice and skirt, kept the panels in the bodice and did away with them in the skirt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Spm3Ee4sxfl91gWYBQpZH1HLNNHFYSfshnlYFY7f_BiLgmv8SM92kUwvZQgEyQKqiXsKuyvZYySJwHbE9J92m7WrH5Cg9QxY9tx4F4FLvTys7o8RPfx4nXZ5UpCSoPb7w_QknKe0uV8/s1600/DSC_0153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Spm3Ee4sxfl91gWYBQpZH1HLNNHFYSfshnlYFY7f_BiLgmv8SM92kUwvZQgEyQKqiXsKuyvZYySJwHbE9J92m7WrH5Cg9QxY9tx4F4FLvTys7o8RPfx4nXZ5UpCSoPb7w_QknKe0uV8/s1600/DSC_0153.JPG" /></a></div>
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I really wanted to encourage a bit of a kooky exaggerated trapeze shape and after a little discussion with my girl <a href="http://www.measuretwicecutonce.com.au/" target="_blank">Susan</a> we agreed that interfacing the skirt panel with a moderately stiff, sew-in interfacing would be the way to go. And it totally worked!<br />
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It does however drape a bit more than I intended because of those princess seams in the bodice. They really do encourage collapsing into the seams.<br />
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That means it also has a less-than-seamless trapeze look. But I really do love it.<br />
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And I blame that cheeky short hemline on <a href="http://www.bloglessanna.com/" target="_blank">Anna</a> who encouraged me to shorten another inch. Oh and also it looks uber short because all my blog shots are taken with the camera slightly below me as there is an incline up into the trees. I'm really not a terrible floozy! Or terribly tall as many at Frocktails asked me when we first met... "why aren't you taller?" Ummmmm, sorry?<br />
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And then came the heartbreak. This fabric was a disaster. These shots are actually taken after the event (weeks in fact) partly because I had no time before. And immediately after... well I was in mourning.<br />
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The dress is destroyed. I know you can't see it here, but the vertical seams of the bodice are tearing apart. It's the weirdest thing I've ever seen. The seam allowances, which were all serged, are fine. The fraying and tearing is coming from the seam line itself and literally spreading. It's at its worst across the broadest part of my back and clearly the dress isn't too small in that area. Before you offer advice and love, no, it can't be saved. It really, really can't.<br />
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It's just a shimmery temptress of darkness and I want to cut it into a thousand little pieces and stomp on it. Yep, I really do. Damn you, you seemingly beautiful brocade, it will be a while before I attempt you again.<br />
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But before I do, here's a little sass.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxH1l5R_nVRUiPZclkUfKTGh3cXEv6UE98LlsjA5G5sI71YpkuG8B2ou1A2eFzbfDCxq5yecJwENHy6f6ddS3wjyiDH4dcykwVIo0EEjW-MuihPmvpQhbEdYmAANasI5mdIB_fdICTGg/s1600/DSC_0150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxH1l5R_nVRUiPZclkUfKTGh3cXEv6UE98LlsjA5G5sI71YpkuG8B2ou1A2eFzbfDCxq5yecJwENHy6f6ddS3wjyiDH4dcykwVIo0EEjW-MuihPmvpQhbEdYmAANasI5mdIB_fdICTGg/s1600/DSC_0150.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-660113630786695742.post-27970785526343959922015-12-20T15:35:00.000+11:002017-09-14T21:30:11.414+10:00SEWN: STOCKHOLM ANNIEI swear this doesn't really look like a nightgown IRL. Not selling it? It's true!<br />
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I haven't worn a maxi skirt or dress in years and never really felt they were <i>me</i>. I find many maxi dresses swamp me in the most unflattering way. And maxi skirts are a trip hazard. Truly they are.<br />
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But then <a href="http://www.tessuti-shop.com/" target="_blank">Tessuti</a> released their <a href="http://www.tessuti-shop.com/collections/digital-download-pattern-dresses/products/annie-dress-pattern-1" target="_blank">Annie Dress pattern</a> and rather than <i>meh</i> (my normal response to maxi anything) I thought <i>hells yeah, bring that to the top of the queue</i>. I knew straight away what fabric I would use. This fabulous linen (blend?) Funkis Stockholm Cityscape fabric I picked up recently from <a href="http://pitttrading.com.au/" target="_blank">Pitt Trading</a>. <a href="http://funkis.com.au/" target="_blank">Funkis</a> as in the clog people. The fabric was designed by <a href="http://www.josefinebrodd.com/" target="_blank">Josefine Brodd</a> and used in their SS2014 for a short-sleeved shift dress.<br />
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I think this fabric may be a blend as it has some sheeny fibres I don't normally associate with a straight linen, but it can take ironing on a high heat and creases like crazy (hello linen) so maybe not.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I really love the cutaway armholes, in fact it may have been what swayed me to the design. But let's be clear. I tried this on with every bra in my arsenal and there is no way that a bra with straps can be worn. Not even those ones that have a clip at the back to create a "racer back". From the front you could always see the straps where the dress bodice meets the dress straps and at the back the racer/cross over straps were certainly not compatible. In fact with any bra I tried it also made the front dress bodice sit weirdly and unattractively.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkM6ppby47dOQI6gEtY_YjJ4hYIf7EHk4AwrYhNELQeubPeImxdvWIgGRCyAmzx9mqLKnwYqWkoaTFBtp5VGKISM-4WleZquJtGuFK8Kz0wYvy712A4FzHT9msKQg5XIiAp3Hbv-Y9MUU/s1600/DSC_0057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkM6ppby47dOQI6gEtY_YjJ4hYIf7EHk4AwrYhNELQeubPeImxdvWIgGRCyAmzx9mqLKnwYqWkoaTFBtp5VGKISM-4WleZquJtGuFK8Kz0wYvy712A4FzHT9msKQg5XIiAp3Hbv-Y9MUU/s1600/DSC_0057.JPG" /></a></div>
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So what am I wearing? <a href="http://www.brasnthings.com/supalite-silicone-adhesives-nude-skin" target="_blank">Chicken fillets</a>, my friends, chicken fillets. These types of stick on bra cup thingies are actually available fairly widely and inexpensively. I have had mine for an age and they are still going strong. I'm sure you could try a traditional strapless bra, but I for one can't keep them up and I hate readjusting all day.<br />
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I also really like the maxi midi length. It's not floor grazing and therefore more practical in my mind, but you can still get away without shaving your legs. Win!<br />
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My bust measurement put me between the XXS and XS. I decided to toile a size XXS, but it just seemed a little snug across the bust and back. I let out the seams a little but it still didn't look right. So this is an XS. I did toile the bodice again, but it's super hard to work out how the bodice will sit without adding the weight of the skirt and quite frankly that's no longer a toile - it's a wearable muslin and huge fabric suck.<br />
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So after completely lining the bodice and attaching the skirt I realised that this size is a little gapey around the armscye. I ended up sewing a dart starting at 1cm in from the side seam line and finished the point at the attachment point of skirt. It's a dirty fix, but it works and no one sees the insides right? That means I actually removed 4cm from the bust. Maybe the XXS was the right size. Sigh...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnoyhSBXArpwQ0ZcOhY2Wx_jbyP600IJkcZNgzu0bdqVv5qMvIhEUPOce3hxUdDyTvG1tfLIlNtEnmfw9jIBZJiJB6vMInpBm2-LTs__eMUymZKJqX4S6CIiNclWpLB95x0YzeHjsY50/s1600/DSC_0047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnoyhSBXArpwQ0ZcOhY2Wx_jbyP600IJkcZNgzu0bdqVv5qMvIhEUPOce3hxUdDyTvG1tfLIlNtEnmfw9jIBZJiJB6vMInpBm2-LTs__eMUymZKJqX4S6CIiNclWpLB95x0YzeHjsY50/s1600/DSC_0047.JPG" /></a><br />
It's another woohoo make for me! And thank goodness <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/11/leatherwork-i-made-shoes.html" target="_blank">I made sandals</a> as they are the only shoes in my wordrobe that work with this very different silhouette for me.<br />
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Right, I'm going to rip off these bra cups, stick on my ridiculously awesome <a href="http://www.sewunravelled.com/2015/12/sewn-my-moroccan.html" target="_blank">me-made bikini</a> and hit the pool. And I'll be completely me-made. Eep!!<br />
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SewJillianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02942981677938784086noreply@blogger.com0